Lazarette Hatch & V-berth Floor Trim

May 22, 2020

I had a number of extracurricular activities going on today, so my time on the Allied 24 was limited to roughly two hours.  I started by water-washing the skim coat of fairing compound I had applied the day earlier.  Once I had dried the surface, I sanded the deck to fair, and then cleaned the surface with a solvent wash.

I set the lazarette hatch in place and marked for the fasteners.  Once pre-drilled, I tapped for #10-24 machine screws.

The two hinges would require four fasteners per hinge.

After tapping the fastener holes, I installed the hatch to test fit - all good. I then mixed a small pot of Intrlux Primekote (two-part epoxy-based primer), and applied it to the prepared surface.

I had enough time to grab the V-berth floor trim and install it.  Interior trim nearly finished!  We have some additional work on the landing platform, specifically, a method to secure the companionway drop boards while the vessel is in use.

Total Time Today: 1.5 hrs

Lazarette Hatch, Cabin Deadlight Trim, and V-berth Floor Trim

May 21, 2020

A managed to escape the home office in the late afternoon for a couple hours work on the Allied 24.  I picked up where I last left off with continued work on changing out the lazarette hatch hinges, which required filling the old fasteners holes, and marking then over-drilling and filling with thickened epoxy the new fastener holes.  I applied a skim coat of fairing compound today, which I will need to sand fair tomorrow and continue on to tapping the holes for the new fasteners.

I left the poop deck and moved onto the cabin deadlight openings.  The cabin sides are too narrow for the straight installation of the deadlights, and so require a trim ring on the interior to provide enough depth for the install.  Today, I fine-tuned the openings to accept the deadlights.

The fine-tuning involved sanding a bit here and a bit there until the fit was snug.

Happy with the snug fit, I wiped down the trim rings with an acetone wash, and then mixed a small amount of resin.

I applied the epoxy resin on the surfaces of the trim rings to seal them from any potential damage from water intrusion.

Having but a little time today, I moved on to the last piece of interior trim (I think!), which was on the aft edge of the v-berth floor.  I took a measure of the span, grabbed a piece of teak stock, and headed over to the table saw.  I removed a section of the teak stock so that the trim would sit flush on the v-berth floor.

Happy with the fit, I eased the edges and surfaces by sanding through 180-grit paper, pre-drilled for three #8 wood screws, and then dry-fitted the trim piece.

Final step this evening was to apply teak oil to the v-berth floor trim piece - installation tomorrow.

Total Time Today: 2 hrs

Hatch Work, Interior Trim, and 12V Battery Install

MY 17, 2020

Getting ever closer to the point of having all of the brightwork and deck hardware dry-fitted for the application of the finish paint, I pushed on today with the lazaretto hatch.  I need to change out the hinges securing the hatch, and so over the last couple days worked to remove and repair the structure to accomplish this task.  Today, I set the hatch in place, applied tape in order to place and align the hinges, marking for drilling for fasteners.

On the poop deck, I over-drilled the locations for the #10 fasteners with a 1/2" forstner bit.

I then cleaned the surfaces with acetone, wet the holes with resin, and then filled with thickened epoxy (West System 406 colloidal silica).

Taking care of other items while the thickened epoxy set up, I later came back and applied TotalBoat TotalFair, epoxy-based fairing compound.  I would sand these areas fair in the coming day, and just prior to tapping for the #10 machine screws.

Back in the shop, I tapped the lazarette hatch for the #10 machine screws.

And then installed the hinges onto the lazarette hatch.  I set the hatch to the side, and focused on other items.

In the boat I needed to address the base of the battery tray for the 12V lithium ion battery.  I wanted to install a rubber base to dampen vibration as well as help to provide a friction surface to keep the battery from moving around in seas.  The solution was to epoxy-glue a couple 11"-long rubber pads to the bottom of the tray.  To this end, I cleaned the surface of the battery tray with acetone, and then applied epoxy resin to wet it out.  I then thickened the remaining resin with 406 colloidal silica, and placed the pads in position.

I went ahead and set the battery in place - it's weight would serve to achieve a good surface bond between the rubber pads and the battery tray.  Finally, I secured the battery with a strap.

Once again back in the shop, I pulled the landing platform trim and installed them with #8 wood screws finished with cup washers.

I carried the landing platform over to the boat and set it in place.  The oiled teak provided a nice contrast to the interior finish paint.

Total Time Today: 4 hrs

Landing Platform Trim, Finishing the Cabin Deadlight Trim Rings, and Spraying the Cockpit Locker Lids

May 16, 2020

On the way over to the Allied 24, I stopped by a retailer to pick up a small, disposable paint sprayer.  In reading some restoration work done by a long admired New England sailor and accomplished boat restoration expert, I came across the use of a disposable paint sprayer.  I have for years thought of stepping into the realm of HVLP paint application, but alas the work area I have does not lend itself to atomizing tiny skulls and crossbones drifting over to my neighbors' yards.  It's also a bit intimidating to be honest.  However, the idea of using these small sprayers was an interesting one, given the part or location on the boat to paint.  I decided that I would experiment with this process today, and chose the cockpit locker lids as my lab rats.  But first I needed to knock out a couple tasks.

I pulled the lining platform top shelf from the boat and brought it back to the shop.  This shelf, platform, would also serve as a liftable lid for the 48V Torqueedo lithium ion battery, and would have trim around three sides of it.  I had previously milled the trim boards, complete with miter cuts on the port and starboard corners.  Today, I set out to pre-drill and mount them prior to applying teak oil to the surfaces.

After marking the location for the fasteners, I selected nine  1.25"-long #6 screws (three for each side), with a cup washer to finish their installations.

In my excitement to get to the oiling of the wood, and thereby bringing out the beautiful teak grain, I forgot to snap a photo of the dry-fitted assembly.  I did manage a photo of one of the side trim pieces in situ; trying to stay considerate of billable time, I decided to not take the ~15 minutes for just a photo.  

I pulled the last trim board from the landing platform, and prepared a small amount of teak oil.  With a clean rag, I applied the oil to each piece of trim, and then set them to the side to dry.

My next task was to start painting the locker lids, so I went to the boat to pull those three locker lids and take them back to the shop.  I started by finish sanding the top surfaces, followed by wiping them down to remove the sanding dust.  I then covered the underside of the lids to protect those surfaces from overspray.  With the locker lids prepped for paint, I mixed a small pot of paint, a total of 6 ounces including thinning agent, and proceeded to apply the first coat of finish paint, Alexseal Oyster White.  I needed about 30 to 45 minutes between coats of paint, so I used the time to address other areas of the restoration. 

In between the first and second coats of paint, I grabbed the Makita 1" belt sander and headed over to the boat.  After removing the clamps I had installed to secure the deadlights trim rings to the cabin sides through the curing of the thickened epoxy, I sanded any part of the rings that stood proud of the original deadlight opening.  

I did much of the sanding with the 1" belt sander, but came behind it with a rough grit paper and hand-sanded the balance.  As I completed that task, it was time for the second coat of finish paint on the locker lids.  I headed back to the shop, donned the respirator, and headed back into the "paint booth" for an additional coat.

 I ended applying three coats of paint, and the surfaces really laid out beautifully.  Perhaps a more proper shop may be in my future, as I would love to upgrade to spraying on topcoat paint like Alexseal and Awlgrip.  I'm looking forward to handling the lids tomorrow to closely examine the results.

Total Time Today: 4.5 hrs

Forward Hatch Install & Trim for Cabin Deadlights

May 15, 2020

Looking to get all the deck and coachroof details tucked away so that topcoat paint can be applied, I set out to get the forward hatch installation completed.  I oriented the hatch around the raised fiberglass trim (underneath the hatch) to provide equal dimension around all four sides.  I then set the hatch hinges 2" inboard from the outboard edges.

Back in the shop, I pre-drilled to tap #8 fasteners, and then over-drilled the interior surface with a 1/2" forstner bit to recess the nut.

I assembled the hinges on the forward hatch, and then set out for the boat...

Aboard the Allied 24, I pre-drilled for #8 fasteners and then tapped the holes to accept the machine screws.  

The forward hatch mounted and partially opened.

A view of the forward hatch from the companionway.

With the forward hatch complete, I then turned my attention to the trim for the cabin deadlights.  The deadlights used on this Allied 24, and the deadlights to be reused, had a dimensions too thick for the fiberglass cabin sides and required a spacer of sorts.  I fabricated the spacer out of teak stock, and not set out to glue them in place.

I clamped the trim to the interior of the cabin sides and applied a layer of protective tape - to catch any epoxy squeeze out.  After applying the tape and removing the trim rings, I sanded the interior surface down to bare fiberglass to prepare for the epoxy resin.  With a quick vacuum and solvent wipe down, I applied the "neat" epoxy resin,  followed by the thickened epoxy.  With the thickened epoxy applied to the interior of the cabin sides, I then set the trim rings in place.  Clamping the rings ensured good contact between the trim and the interior cabin sides.  I came back an applied thickened epoxy to any gaps that remained.  Finished sanding and installation of the deadlights will follow.

Total Time Today: 3.75 hrs

Final Install of Interior Trim

May 12, 2020

I worked this afternoon to complete the interior trim installation.  After bringing the completed v-berth insert to the boat and setting it into place, I turned to the completing the primary bulkhead trim. With several grits of sand paper, I hand-sanded the trim in order to remove saw marks and to round over the edges.  After cleaning up of the surfaces by vacuuming and a quick acetone wipe down, I applied a couple coats of teak oil.  

I then prepped the surfaces of the trim pieces that would dress the intersecting planes of the bulkheads and the cabin settees aft and then the bulkheads and v-berth forward.  I sanded the surfaces of the trim where they would engage the cabin structure, as well as the settees, v-berth, and primary bulkheads.  After cleaning up, I wetted the surfaces with epoxy resin and then bonded them in place with thickened epoxy - using larger chunks of concrete to weight them and secure them inlace while the epoxy cured.  

I then mounted the balance of the v-berth trim forward, and then mounted the cabin settee trim aft.  

Total Time Today: 2.5 hrs

Final Coat of Interior Paint & Oiling the Interior Trim

May 2, 2020

I grabbed a couple hours on the Allied 24 today to complete the interior painting, as well as moving the interior trim to the point of being ready for installation.  I sanded all surfaces with 180-grit paper, followed by a thorough vacuuming and wipe down with a solvent-laced towel.  

I applied the final coat of Interlux Premium Yacht Enamel to the v-berth and cabin, rolling it out with a 6" foam roller.  After completing the interior of the Allied, I moved back to the shop to apply paint to the v-berth insert.

After paint, I gathered the interior trim that I had recently finish-sanded.  After wiping them down with a solvent to remove residual sanding dust and teal oils, I applied a 'teal oil' to treat the and preserve the wood.

I applied the oil to as much of the surface area that I could, but knew that additional work here would be required.

Total Time Today: 2 hrs