Torqueedo Motor and Electronics Box Install, Non-Skid Taping, and a bit of Plumbing

July 7, 2020

I started the day by creating a template for the Torqueedo electronics box, in order to mount it onto the bulkhead supporting the cockpit sole.  I placed the template in position and then drilled for the 4 #10 machine screws that I would use to secure it to the bulkhead.  

The electronics box required that I first install the positive and negative (as well as data wire) wires from the lower unit prior to mounting it onto the bulkhead.  So, I turned my attention to mounting the lower unit...the business end of the motor.  I had a bit of fine-tuning to do on the holes I had previously drilled into the counter of the Allied - to accept the tubing/wiring of the motor.  After finishing the fine-tuning work, I thoroughly vacuumed and wiped down the surfaces to prepare for bedding compound and installation.  I used a saw horse to support the motor, as it was partially inserted into the counter.  With the motor supported, and having full access to the mounting block and mounting flange, I then liberally cooped up the surfaces with Sitka-Flex 291-LOT.  I then pressed the motor further into the counter, and supported it with a wood wedge.

I scrambled up into the cockpit, and with a wrench, then fully secured the motor to the counter of the boat.  As can be seen, I had good squeeze out of the 291-LOT.  

I cleaned up the squeeze out, and then admired the install.  My fabrication and planning work on the install had the motor angled slight down, moving forward to aft, and the angle is apparent in the photo.

The alignment along the centerline of the boat is also dead-on.  

With the business end of the motor installed, and wiring running through to the electronics box, I could now secure the wiring in the box, close the panel, and mount the box to the bulkhead.

The installation was easy enough, a bit fussy with the up and down and in and out of the boat, but she came together as planned.

The view in the lazarette hatch, showing the wiring from the lower unit moving through the aft cockpit bulkhead (protected with chaff gear) and forward to the electronics box.

The view of the port side cockpit locker, housing the electronics box.  At this time, I also chose to install the plumbing line from the cockpit seat gutter to the cockpit sole.  The gutter (just below the coaming boards, gathers water and then funnels it into the cockpit, to then be delivered overboard by way of the seacocks.

The starboard cockpit gutter plumbing installed as well.

Total Time Today: 7 hrs

Lazarette Hatch Support, Taff Rail, and Coaming Block Pads

July 6, 2020

Today's work mostly revolved around the aft portion of the boat.   I started with  installing hatch supports for the lazaretto hatch.  This required that I fabricate mounting blocks for the hardware.  I first tied off the hatch in the open position, and then fabricated the mounting blocks out of teak, sanding through to 320 grit paper.  I pre-drilled the mounting blocks for fasteners and then assembled the mounting blocks to both port and starboard supports.  

Next, I placed the supports in position, and marked for their installation by taping off the boundary for he mounting block on the underside of the hatch as well as the forward and aft boundary of the block to be located on the lip of the lazarette itself.  With the mounting blocks' final resting place positioned, I dissembled the blocks from the hardware and predrilled on the underside of the hatch.  

At this point, I was ready for installation...meaning using epoxy to glue the mounting blocks in final position.  I ground off a bit of fiberglass on the lazarette well and roughed up the underside of the hatch.  I then applied epoxy resin (neat) to the surfaces, mixed in some colloidal silica in the remaining resin, buttered up the backsides of the mounting blocks, and then set them in position.  I secured the upper mounting blocks with fasteners into the underside of the hatch, and the lower mounting blocks were secured with vices.

Later in the day, with the epoxy near fully cured, I closed the hatch.  I did have to do some chisel work on the upper mounting blocks to allow for a neat and tight fit, but that was accomplished fairly easily.

In the course of the day's work I managed to fabricate two new coaming block pads.  I selected a couple pieces of scrap teak, took a bevel reading on the cabin sides to coaming block angle, and then cut that angle on the soon to be new coaming block pads.

I then figured out the sizing of the pads, and made the appropriate cuts followed by  finish sanding to shape.  I finished the coaming block pads with a couple fastener holes cut into them, using a forstner bit.

I installed the starboard coaming block pad, followed by the 3/8" bungs, and then varnished the pad in situ.

I replicated the efforts on the port side coaming block pad.  In the next day or two, I will trim the bungs and repeat the varnish work.

Total Time Today: 6.25 hours

Installation of Bow Cap and Toe Rails

July 5, 2020

The day after the shelling...amazing how a 17-month year old sleeps through the barrage! We walked outside last night and witnessed a celebration of the birth of nation with literally 360-degrees of professional fireworks being let off - it was shock and awe!

On the boat today,  I arrived just prior to noon, and then got straight to the toe rail installation.  Since this was a one-man job, I knew I had to jump straight into it to finish at a decent time...and with a decent amount of daylight left.

The photo below shows the installation of the port toe rail, but not the engineering that went into its installation.  

I use a series of lines to both support the lengthy, flippity-floppy piece of brightwork and to elevate it to the correct position.

Once I have the rail in the proper position, I begin ticking off the 1/4-20 fasteners, until I reach a point in the curve of the deck that I need to reposition the lines to effectuate moving the rail into its new position.  The process, being one person left to it, is an up and down, back and forth, inside and out round-about kind of job...and did I mention I happened on to 9 stitches in my right foot on July 1st?  My sympathy pleas....I managed.

With the port and starboard toe rails on, as well as the bow cap, I returned to the shop and began cutting 1/2" bungs to cover the toe rail fastener holes.  I managed through 3 pieces of scrap teak from the original stock, and then removed the bungs by gently leveraging one side.  

I slightly thinned a bit of Epifanes varnish, grabbed a few tools and headed to the boat.  The process is simple: batter the bung with some varnish, set it into position above the hole, and persuade it into its final resting place with a hammer.

I worked from the starboard stern, forward to the bow cap, and then down the port toe rail, completing the bunging of the rail.  

Tomorrow, I will trim the toe rail bungs and varnish over the fresh teak.  I will also (hopefully, as I am awaiting a delivery) install the taff rail, and also install the business end of the Torqueedo motor.

Total Time Today: 7.5 hrs

6th (and Final) Coat of Topsides Paint

July 4th, 2020

With enough topsides paint in reserve, I planned yesterday for early coat of paint this morning by lightly sanding the hull yesterday evening.  I awoke early this morning and headed for the shop.  Upon arrival, I gathered the materials (Alexseal paint), and mixed a pot of the two-part paint and then set it to the side to wait for the induction period to expire.

Whilst the paint was doing its chemical thing, I headed to the boat to prepare the hull by first wiping it down with a damp rag, and then followed that with a rag dampened with acetone.  Back to the shop for the painting tools, I quickly commenced with the painting.

Total Time Today 0 hrs

Installing the Coaming Boards and Aft Cockpit Trim

July 3, 2020

First thing on the list for today was to trim the portion of the coaming board/return bungs that were standing proud.  I trimmed the bungs and then carefully sanded down to a fair surface.

With 320-grit paper, I widened my sanding area a bit to help blend in the varnish to come.

With the coaming boards and returns assembled, I took them over to the boat to begin their installation.  I set them on the aft deck while I worked on preparing for their installation.  The first order of business in the prep work was countersinking the fastener holes on the fiberglass molded portion of the coaming.  I wanted to create an area that would trap the bedding compound - helping to keep things water-tight.

I then set up the hydraulic jack and spacer blocks that would help push the coaming boards into their final position.  With everything prepped, I moved to pushing the boards into place.  The hydraulic jack slowly moved the boards tight up against the fiberglass molded coaming.  Once the boards were set in position, I started fastening the 1/4"-20 machine screws.  I worked my way along the boards, 20 screws per board.  With the fasteners in place and the hydraulic jack still supporting things, I began mounting the lock washers and nuts.  Roughly half of the fasteners were accessible through the cockpit lockers, the balance from below.  After installing all fasteners, lock washers and nuts, I removed the hydraulic jack to complete the installation.

Boat is looking good....

Back in the shop, I pulled the aft cockpit trim board and prepared for its installation.  Chances are that the owner will elect to go with a mainsheet traveler installation, and the place for that traveler is aft of the cockpit.  The original/previous install position was on the bridge deck.  I never understood mounting the mainsheet traveler on the bridge deck - encumbering entry and exit to the cabin!  This teak trim board will be a good place to mount a small traveler system, if the owner elects to do that.  Of course a few blocks mounted to the poop deck can accomplish the same goal.

I marked out locations for the fasteners, and drilled bung holes (3/8"), countersinking as I went.

The silicone bronze wood screws to be used.

I secured the trim board, and then bunged the holes with the newly cut 3/8" bungs.

View from aft, as the Allied 24 is being put back together.

Total Time Today: 4.5 hrs

Varnishing Toe Rails and Assembling the Coaming Boards and Returns

July 2, 2020

With the recent foot trauma, I decided to take things a bit easy today.  I grabbed a few pieces of 320-grit paper and headed over to the toe rails.  I worked my way down the starboard rail and then back to start with completion of the port rail.  After a good wipe down with a rag and acetone, I poured some Epifanes high gloss varnish in a cup, slightly thinned it, and headed over to the rails once again.

With a foam brush, I applied the third coat of varnish to the rails.  The rails will be going in ahead of the planned six coats, simply to minimize small depressions around the bungs to be installed once the rails are mounted.

I headed back to the shop, ditched the varnishing gear, and got to work on assembling the coaming return blocks onto the coaming boards themselves.  I used #10 silicone bronze wood screws to mount the returns, and then sealed them with bungs dipped in varnish.  I will later remove the portion of the bungs standing proud, sand, and then coat with varnish.

Total Time Today: 2 hrs

Torqueedo Battery Install and Completing the Ports and Deadlights

July 1, 2020

Not being able to sleep, I turned out early in the morning and headed for the shop.  There were some odds and ends that I needed to do to prep for coming work, so I decided to get straight into that.  These were tasks tangibly associated with the boat but not to be billable hours.  First task in the early morning hours was cutting bungs for the toe rails, aft cockpit trim, companionway threshold trim, bow cap, etc.  I grabbed a few pieces of the teak scrap (offcuts), and proceeded to drill out bungs with the bung cutter heads on the small drill press.  I ended up with a dozen 1/2" bungs, and quite a bag full of 3/8" bungs.

The other task for the morning was organizing and straightening up the shop.  All of my boat projects tend to evolve into a disorganized shop, as I use this tool and that tool, and grab this part and that material...its a mess.

With my personnel tasks out of the way, the sun was just starting to illuminate the boat bay.  I collected the needed tools and material and got to working on installing the port-side opening ports.

With Sitka-Flex 291 LOT, I applied a significant amount of bedding compound and then pushed the port frame in place.  I also applied 291 LOT to the exterior flange and set it into position.  I fastened the #10 machine screws from the outside, and then assembled the washers and nuts from the interior.

Using a screwdriver and a socket wrench,  I secured each fastener, pulling the frame and flange tight onto the cabin side.  I removed the excess squeeze out, and then cleaned the surfaces with mineral spirits.

Having glued up a base for a latch to keep the battery box / landing platform in an open position, I mounted said latch.

It seemed an appropriate time to go ahead and install the Torqueedo battery.  I lugged the massive 48volt battery to the boat, heaved it up onto deck and into the cabin.  I first slid the battery onto it supports - teak blocks with tabs to port and starboard as well as forward and aft.  These tabs would keep the battery from moving to port, starboard, aft and to forward.  I would also need to secure the battery from lifting off of its supports.

For that, I chose a couple straps that would tension onto itself, and also be threaded through the lateral strap slits - two on the starboard side and two on the port side.

The straps would hold the battery tight onto the battery supports and secured through these eyelits.

The battery box assembled, and 48volts all tucked away.

After lunch, I went right back to finishing the ports.  I had just the port and starboard deadlights to complete.  The starboard deadlight went in without and issue, and I was soon on to the port side deadlight.  By this time I was pretty tired, having been working on or at the boat since 6am.  With all of the fasteners in on the port deadlight, I made a fateful trip up out of the cockpit and onto the side deck...and ripped my foot across an exposed screw head!  I could see the wound and significant amount of blood, so I quickly wrapped my foot in a towel, tapped it off....and without trying to be Hemingway, I completed the deadlight installation.  I closed the shop and headed to the clinic, where an hour later I had 9 stitches in my foot. Pretty silly, but let's move on!

Total Time Today: 7.5 hrs