Dry-fitting the Companionway Trim (Part 2)

March 29, 2020

I set out today to dry-fit the balance of the companionway trim - the threshold piece and the boards that would lock the drop boards in place.  I started by setting the threshold board in position, and then set the starboard inner and outer boards, faceplates, that would secure the drop boards.  With the faceplates set to their final location, I marked and pre-drilled for the 1.75" #10 fasteners.  I repeated the exercise for the port side of the companionway, and then removed the faceplates and headed to the wood shop for further work.

In the shop, I used a forstner bit to create a recess for an eventual bung.  I did this to the four fastener holes on the inner starboard faceplate as well as the inner port faceplate, and finally for the two fasteners on the threshold piece. 

I followed up by countersinking each of the fastener holes.

Back on the boat, I assembled the balance of the companionway trim to complete the dry-fit.

The companionway came out great.  In the coming week, I will be working on building the two interlocking drop boards that will complete the companionway brightwork. 

Total Time Today: 2.75 hrs

Dry-Fitting the Companionway Trim

March 28, 2020

With deck paint in the near future, I needed to get the companionway trim installed in order to make final dimension adjustments, mark locations for nonskid paint lines, and to begin the varnish work.

I began by installing the companionway hatch rails.  In a previous work session I had marked and over-drilled the location of the companionway rail fasteners, and then filled these larger diameter holes with thickened epoxy.  The filling of these larger holes with thickened epoxy, and once the fasteners were installed, would serve to protect the surrounding new balsa core material.  I pre-drilled through the solid epoxy for the companionway rails' #10 fasteners.

I then placed the rails in position and, from below, then drilled up into the bottom of the rails, just marking where I would continue to pre-drill for the fasteners.  I removed the rails and completed the pre-drilling effort. With the rails off, I slightly opened up the diameter of the pre-drilling holes through the thickened epoxy; the pre-drilling effort into the rails themselves was done with a 1/8" drill bit.

I returned the rails to their final position and secured them with the #10 screws and finish washer.

The profile of the new hatch and rail assembly really improved the look of the coach roof.

Next, I moved on to installing the trim around the companionway entrance itself.  This interior lip would also serve to channel rainwater outboard of the companionway.

A view from inside the cabin, with the hatch pulled aft.

The last thing I got to today was the filling and fairing of the screw holes and fiberglass on the v-berth floor.  This was the previous location for the head, where I removed two through-hull fittings, opened up the access to the forward portion of the bilge, and fabricated a hatch board / covering board.

Total Time Today: 4.25 hrs

Sanding & Painting the Interior

March 26, 2020

In a marathon painting session, I completed the interior paint and essentially prepared the path forward to completing the interior construction and trim work.  

I began by sanding all primed interior surfaces, beginning with the chain locker bulkhead and working aft toward to the cabin/cockpit bulkhead.  I used 180-grit paper to just scuff the surfaces to allow a good mechanical bond with the Interlux Premium Yacht Paint.  

As can be seen in the photo below, I left the small floor in the v-berth unpainted since I needed to get some epoxy fairing work done prior to priming it.  I successfully worked around this area and will be coming back soon to prepare the area to primer paint.

I applied the interior topcoat paint with both brush and foam roller.  

The final coat of paint on the interior came out great and brightened up the surfaces in a dramatic way.

Total Time Today: 5.75 hrs

Second Coat of Topsides Paint

March 22, 2020

Picking up where I left off the day prior, I set out to complete the second round of topsides paint application.  I first used the shop vac, with a brush attachment, and thoroughly vacuumed the hull surfaces to remove the fine sanding dust.  The photo below shows a section of the starboard topsides that is vacuumed (right side of picture), and the surface yet to be vacuumed (left side of picture).  Secondly, I used several wet rags to remove the finer material that was not removed with the shop vac.  Finally, I came bag with several rags dampened with acetone to remove the remaining sanding debris and general contaminates.  

Back in the shop, I mixed a pot of of the Alexseal Flag Blue and set it to the side to wait out the 15-minute induction period - where the two-part paint begins to catalyze.  

At the end of the 15-minute induction period, I poured the paint through a paint strainer to remove any unwanted material...you know, the stuff that can ruin your paint day.

I then set out on the rough 90-minute paint odyssey.  Paint leveled out nicely with no kamikaze insects for the paint session.  Weather was overcast with a slight breeze; temperatures in the high 70s.

Total Time Today: 2 hrs

Topsides Sanding & Companionway Trim Work

March 22, 2020

My focus today was to get the companionway trim started, specifically the installation.  All of the trim pieces are constructed, so the next step was to prep them for final installation.  For the trim components that could be compromised with potential water intrusion, I decided to drill-fill-drill.  Which is to say, I will be over-drilling the fastener holes, and then filling with thickened epoxy.  The final fastener hole will be pre-drilled within the center of the epoxy filler, isolating any potential water intrusion from the surrounding balsa core material.

I laid out the orientation of the companionway hatch trim boards, and then marked and taped off the outlines for the hatch trim boards.  

With a 1/2" forstner bit, I drilled out the area that the fastener would be installed.  I completed this for the eight (8) fasteners per side.  Each of the holes I drilled went through the fiberglass topskin, through the balsa core, and just into the bottom skin but not through it.    

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Next, I came back and cleaned out the drilled holes, and then wetted them with straight epoxy resin.  I made my way back to the shop to mix additional epoxy resin, and this time thickened it with 406 colloidal silica.  I worked the thickened epoxy into each hole, and finished by cleaning up the surface surrounding the holes.  It will be in these holes that I will pre-drill for the fasteners.  Any water that makes its way into the hole will be isolated from the surrounding balsa core - preserving the integrity of the coach roof.

I finished the day with a hefty task - sanding the first application of topsides paint.

I made my way around the boat by hand-sanding as well as using the 5" random orbital with 220-grit discs.

I completed the work and cleaned up the work area and shop.  My intention is to get the second coat applied tomorrow.  

Total Time Today: 6 hrs

Dry-Fitting the Coaming Blocks & Boards, and Fabricating the Aft Cockpit Trim

March 11, 2020

Upon arriving at the shop today, I set about to work on the port side coaming block.  Having previously epoxy-glued a filler strip of teak, I now was ready to trim the excess material and shape for final fit.  With a small Japanese saw, I trimmed the overhanging material and flush-sanded to final dimensions.

Up on the boat, the newly tuned port side coaming block fit nicely in position.

My next steps would be to secure the coaming blocks to the cabin sides, and then secure them to the coaming boards.

On the exterior surface of the cabin sides I marked the outline of the coaming blocks, removed them, and then drilled for three fasteners.

I repeated the process for the starboard side that I had executed for the port side.  I choose #10 wood screws 1.25" in length, and used finish washers for more aesthetic look.

With the coaming blocks secure firmly to the cabin sides, without risk of shifting, I was now ready to secure the coaming boards to the coaming blocks.  I wanted to removed the board and block assembly, in one piece, from the boat in order to do some final shaping back at the shop.  In addition, I could not install the third, lower screw do to the angle of the board and the deck not providing enough room.

Installed the two uppermost screws, both on the starboard and the port assemblies, leaving the third for work on the ground.

Before I could removed the coaming board-block assemblies, I needed to fabricate the aft cockpit trim board. This board would serve a couple functions: first, it would prevent water from streaming off the decking onto the seating, and second, it will (possibly) provide the substrate for the mainsheet traveler and block.  I cut a scrap piece of material to 46", and then hot-glued a couple stir sticks on the outboard ends to bridge the gap between the scrap material and the inboard edge of the coaming boards.  This would serve as an analog for the teak trim that I would need to fabricate.

After removing a 1.5" x 51" strip of teak, I ran it through the planer to get to a thickness of 5/8".

Back in the boat, I trimmed and sanded the outboard edges to mirror the angles of the coaming boards until I arrived at a balanced fit.

Finally, I sanded all edges, rounding over the most exposed edges, which completed the piece.

The coaming boards proved necessary for the fabrication of the aft cockpit trim, and now with that task completed, I was ready to remove them.  I once again set up my jack system - pushing the coaming boards hard up against the molded fiberglass coaming.  This process allows for easy installation and removal of the coaming boards since they are under a lot of torque given the curve of the molded fiberglass coaming.

I first removed all backing nuts and washers, and then backed out the 1/4" machine screws.  

I carried the coaming board-block assemblies over to the shop and began the final shaping work and general sanding prior to varnish.

I sanded the field of the boards with 150-grit paper on the Porter Cable 7335 6" sander, and then gently rounded the edges with the 5" random orbital.

Next, I drilled the third, lower set screw for the coaming board to block assembly, and set the #10 silicone bronze screw in place.

Lastly, I drilled out some 3/8" bungs for future installation on the coaming boards.  There will be more bungs required for the companionway trim installation, but that will come later.

Total Time Today: 5 hrs

Companionway Trim

March 8, 2020

Before I got started on the companionway trim, I need to do a bit of work on the port side coaming block.  Specifically, I needed to glue up a piece of teak on the outboard rabbit where it tied in with the coaming board itself.  With the coaming block sitting flush with the cabin sides, I had about a 1/4" gap between the coaming block and coaming board.  So, to this end, I retrieved the portion of teak cleaved from the starboard winch base, and sanded it down to the required thickness.  After a few test -fits and further refinement, I arrived at a thickness that would work.  I marked the material required for the coaming block and removed it from the larger piece of teak.

Next, I solvent-wiped the surfaces to prepare for gluing of the surfaces with epoxy resin.  After I had prepped the surfaces, I mixed a small amount of resin and then painted out the two surfaces to be joined.  With the remaining epoxy resin, I thickened it with wood flour (fine sawdust that I had saved from prior sanding work), and applied it one of the surfaces to be joined.  I set the filler piece in place and cleaned up any squeeze out, and then set it to the side to cure.

I then turned my attention to the lazarette hatch.  Because of close clearances between the inside dimensions of the hatch and the lip of the lazarette opening itself, I need to recess the washers and nuts holding the hinges of the hatch.

I used a 3/8" forstner bit, as well as some fine chisel work, and recessed the washers and buts into the frame of the hatch.  This work would provide the needed clearance for the hatch to work around the frame/lip.

Next, I laid out the lazarette hatch onto the poop deck and marked for drilling out for the fasteners.  I pre-drilled for the #10-24 silicone bronze machine screws, and then tapped the openings for the screws.

I used 1.75" silicone bronze machine screws to set the lazarette hatch in position.

The hatch operated without any interference with the lip of the lazarette itself.

The hatch would be removed in the coming days to prepare for the deck paint, but looked good in its temporary installation.

For the major work of the day, I moved on to the companionway trim.  I laid out the several components of the trim work and began marking for refinement and shaping of those various components.   The first pieces that I refined were the trim pieces on the coach roof around the companionway: I removed the outboard edges on the forward piece to allow the companionway hatch slides to run unobstructed, and then trimmed the aft tails of the outboard trim pieces to clean them up.

I then trimmed and sanded the face plates on the aft and forward sides of the cabin's aft bulkhead.

For the companionway hatch slide rails, I needed to deepen the channel that the hatch slides would transit upon opening and closing.  Using a small laminate trim router and a straight cutting bit, I deepened the slot on the starboard rail only.  Doing this would allow for a tighter assembly and more room for play between the slide rails and the companionway hatch.

Finally, I assembled the various companionway trim components, and the set out to measure and mark for fasteners - which will be ordered this evening.

Total Time Today: 5 hrs