Final Coat of Primer for the Deck, Coaming Block Work, and the Tiller

February 29, 2020

Having previously spot-faired and sanded the entirety of the cockpit, coachroof, and deck, I chose to apply the final coat of epoxy primer paint to those same surfaces.  I began by cleaning the deck of debris, pollen, and generally any surface contaminates that might ruin my day.  I finished the prep by wiping the surface down with Interlux 202 surface prep, a de-waxing and surface cleaner.

With the deck prepped for painting, I mixed a small pot of the TotalBoat TotalProtect epoxy primer.  I applied with both a foam brush and a foam roller.  

The foam brush was used for the tighter areas (the gutters for the cockpit lockers primarily), and the foam roller for the "field" areas.  The next step for the cockpit, coachroof and deck will be finish paint and nonskid!

I returned to the shop to continue work on the port coaming block.  This coaming block was standing too far off the cabin sides, and required a bit more dimension of the width.  I would achieve this by epoxy glueing a thin teak slab to the inboard edge.  I cleaned both glue surfaces with acetone, and then applied epoxy resin to the bare wood.  With the remaining resin, I thickened it with "wood flour" (very fine teak sawdust) to achieve a consistent color, and then placed the two pieces together.  The next steps here will be to trim the excess material and shape for final installation.

I decided to knock off for the balance of the afternoon, and "EQ", or Early Quit, at least for the billable work.  For the remaining time I had at the boat, I decided to continue work on the tiller.  At this point, I had a laminated blank of teak and white oak, alternating layers of the different wood species.  I transferred the curvature of the original tiller onto the new lamination, and then began to shape it to a pleasing dimension.

I used a number of sanders in my arsenal, as well as good old hand sanding to reach the final shape.

Progressing to 180-grit sand paper, I smoothed the surfaces to the point where they were ready for varnish.

For this tiller, I decided to create a "head" on it, or a place to rest ones forefinger, telegraphing the end of the tiller without having to look at it.

Happy with the results, I prepared the surfaces of the tiller for a sealer coat of varnish - wiping it down with acetone to remove any remaining sanding residuals.  I thinned the Epifanes varnish with its own proprietary thinning agent, and applied the varnish with a foam brush.

This will be the first of roughly 5 to 6 coats of varnish for the tiller.

Total Time Today: 2.5 hrs  (Time & Materials for the tiller will not be billed)

First Coat of Topsides Paint

February 24, 2020

Not wanting to wait too long from the time I freshly sanded the topsides, I made an effort this morning to put the first coat of topsides paint onto the hull.  Upon arriving at the boat, I immediately mixed a batch of the Alexseal Flag Blue topcoat paint.  I needed to wait for approximately 20 minutes to allow the two-part paint to mix and activate.  While I waited out the induction period, I thoroughly wiped the surface down with damp towel, followed by several rags dampened with solvent.  I worked the surfaces of the boat's topsides until I removed all traces of sanding residue. 

I began on the starboard counter (aft) and worked my way forward, waiting from the waterline up.  I made sure to work at a steady pace to keep a wet edge from the recently painted areas, allowing for a seamless blend.  When I reached the bow, I made the turn to port and proceeded to work my way aft. I completed the first coat of topsides at the transom of the boat.  The paint lays down in thin coats, and so will require another three to four coats for me to be happy with the minimum mils of paint thickness  The paint marks an important milestone, and presents this Allied 24 nicely.

Total Time Today: 2 hrs

Trimming the Winch Pads and Sanding the Topsides

February 23, 2020

I began today's session by getting started with sanding the topsides.  I wanted to get a first coat of topsides paint onto the hull, but it was likely that the time required to mix paint and prep the hull after  the sanding exercise would put me well into the evening.  Nevertheless, I pushed on with the task.

I began by sanding the transitions from port and starboard topsides to transom, and the lip at the sheer line where the hull turned inward to create the flange for the deck to be through-bolted.  These transitions would require a more delicate approach - hand-sanding.  I cleaned up the transom, and then worked the starboard side and around to the port.  

With these more delicate surfaces sanded and complete, I broke out the Bosch 6" orbital and completed the field of the transom and topsides with 150-grit hook and loop pads.

I rounded off the sanding with some additional detail work by hand.  With the time just after 5pm, I knew that I could not begin application of the topsides paint unless I wanted to apply in the dark.  The first coat would have to wait, and so I turned my attention back to the shop.

In the shop, I cleaned up the teak lamination  I had made a few days earlier.  My intention was to glue this additional thickness to the existing port coaming block; however, the temperatures were too cold to allow for epoxy work, and so this would also have to wait.

I gathered the recently fabricated teak winch bases and set out for the boat to mark for further refinement.  The winch pads as constructed were a bit tall, with the port side pad a good 1/8" over the coaming board and the starboard pad a good 3/8" over the coaming board.

I measured for trimming, set up the table saw to accommodate, and then made the cuts to allow an aesthetically pleasing height for both port and starboard.  That would complete the weekend's work.

Total Time Today: 4.5 hrs

Cutting Out Coaming Board Cubby Access and Fitting Coaming Blocks

February 17, 2020

I began by finishing up the two fasteners that I overlooked the day previous; the second to last pair of fasteners to the aft end of the port coaming board.  

With the fasteners installed, I moved on to the task of opening up the winch cubby in the port coaming board.  The small Barlow winches are mounted on a teak pad on top of these cubbing, just outboard of the coaming boards.  I began by drilling through the coaming board with a 1" forstner bit...trusting that my measurements were correct so that I would punch through in the center, more or less, of the cubby.  Success.  I gradually opened up the access hole with a jigsaw, slowly removing as much material as I could while still keeping a sufficient lip to then route a clean edge. 

My goal was to hot-glue tongue depressors (aka my epoxy, paint, and varnish stir sticks) onto the fiberglass flange of the cubby itself, and around the inside of the opening.

This effort created a fairly smooth ledge all the way around the interior of the opening; but most important, it allowed a flat surface for the router's flush cutting bit bearing to ride upon.

The result was a uniformly cut opening that mirrored the dimensions of the fiberglass opening.  I then used a round over bit on the trim router to ease the exterior edges of the opening.  By hand, I sanded the interior edges of the opening to soften things up on hands going in and out of the stowage space.

I cleaned up the edges further with 120 and then 180 grit paper.

Next, I transitioned over to the starboard coaming and repeated the process of using a forstner bit to gain access for the jigsaw, and then to rough out the opening for the router.

Again, I hot-glued the tongue depressors onto the interior fiberglass flange, and proceeded to flush cut the teak to its final dimension.

With the round over bit, I eased the exterior edge.  Finally, I sanded the interior edges and the exterior with 120 and 180 paper to finish things off.  The coamings are now to final dimension, and after taking some measurements with the coaming blocks I will be removing them for final shaping on the forward and aft ends and varnishing.

I started with the port coaming block, placing it into position on the coaming board.  There was a consistent 3/8" gap between the inboard edge of the coaming block and the exterior surface of the coachroof.  Other than this gap, the fit of the coaming block was good.  To solve for this, I will be building up this inboard edge of the coaming block with a slab of teak 3/8" thick.

I carefully measured several points on the port coaming block fit, and made notes for work back in the shop.

The starboard coaming block was a snug fit - really happy to see that.  There would be some trimming and final shaping, as would be necessary on the port coaming, but all was good here.

Pads on top of the coaming blocks will complete the installation.  Back in the shop, I prepared four thin pieces of teak by solvent-washing the surfaces, and then applied epoxy resin to the surfaces to be glued up.  I then mixed a small amount of 406 (West System, colloidal silica), and spread a thin layer onto each surface to be glued.  After assembling the teak-epoxy sandwich, I placed a layer of plastic on top and then weighted the teak sufficiently to ensure a flat product.  The next step here will be to clean up the teak assembly, and then glue it to the port coaming board. 

Total Time Today: 3 hrs

Dry-Fitting the Coaming Boards

February 16, 2020

After wrapping up club water polo practice, I headed over to the boat to complete the one project for today's goal: dry-fitting the coaming boards.

I placed the shaped coaming boards in position and applied a hydraulic jack to push the boards to take the shape of the molded fiberglass coamings.  This took me a few attempts because NOTHING on a boat is plumb and square!  In the end, with the help of a couple shims, I was able to get the coaming boards pushed into position while stabilizing the jack and supports.

The process of installing the coaming boards included marking two fasteners 3" from the cockpit's aft bulkhead followed by two fasteners every 9" going  forward.  I then pre-drilled to tap for the 1/4" fasteners.  After tapping for the 1/4"-20 machine screws, I installed a finish washer with every fastener.  On the interior of the molded fiberglass coaming, I applied a larger flat washer, smaller locking washer, and a nylon locking nut.  Somehow, maybe in the excitement of the installation, I missed two fasteners on the aft portion of the port coaming board.  No worries, since my next move will be to remove the coaming boards for the last coat of primer paint, and at that time I will install and remove these two fasteners.

The Allied Greenwich 24 looks well balanced with the coaming boards installed!

Total Time Today: 3.5 hrs

Fitting the Bow Cap, Removing the Toe Rails, and Sanding the Cockpit and Deck Surfaces

February 15, 2019

I had left off previously by gluing up a couple filler strips on the bow cap, where the toe rails joined.  There was a bit of a gap that I was unhappy with.  In order to correct the situation, I epoxied two thin strips of teak to the inboard edge of the toe rail joint.  I would further shape and refine the filler pieces to ensure a tight fit.

I removed the clamps, and then removed the excess material with a small Japanese saw.  With 60-grit sandpaper, I sanded the two surfaces fair.

With the bow cap to the point of being ready for fitting, I walked it over to the boat and began the iterative process of fitting the bow cap, with her new dimensions, into position.

I slowly removed material at the intersection points, both starboard and port, where the toe rail joined the bow cap, and ultimately arrived at a good fit.  With the bow cap now fitting properly, I turned my attention to shaping the outboard edge of the bow cap, and also the transition areas from toe rail to bow cap.  This work now completed the railing brightwork: bow cap, toe rails, and taff rail.

With painting just around the corner, I removed all of the railing brightwork, stowing them either below the boat or in the shop.  There were a couple cracks on the forward ends of both starboard and port toe rail, and so I took the time to fill and stabilize them with epoxy resin.  Varnish will ultimately seal the brightwork...thus protecting the epoxy from damaging UV rays.

I had intentions of dry-fitting the coaming boards today, but realized that I needed to sand the spot fairing I had previously applied, which would necessitate me applying another coat of cockpit and deck primer.  

I spent the balance of my time sanding the entirety of the cockpit and deck surfaces, using both the 5" random orbital as well as hand-work.

The next steps will be dry-fit the coaming boards, as well as the companionway trim, and then apply the last coat of primer paint to the cockpit and deck structures.

Total Time Today: 4.5 hrs

Completing the Toe Rail

February 9, 2020

The weekend was marked for significant work to get done on the boat, but life got in the way.  With commitments fulfilled Saturday, I managed to squeak out a few hours on Sunday.  I spent the time completing the fitting of the toe rails, specially two portions of the toe rail on the aft quarters.

Ii selected a couple pieces of teak, and trimmed them to a rough finish shape.  Starting on the starboard side, I set the toe rail to taff quarter piece in position, and marked for further refinement.  Before sanding, I needed to remove a significant amount of material outboard.  I did this with a fine-toothed saw.

After removing the majority of the material, I began working the remaining surplus material with a small sander and by hand, and eventually dialed the small filler piece in.

I then moved over to the port side, and repeated the process of fitting and refining the portion of toe rail.

As I did for the starboard side, I also used the sander and hand-sanding for eventual refinement and fitting of the toe rail section.

The toe rail is now complete around the perimeter of the boat....the remaining issues are of fit and appearance. These remaining items would be addressed today, and in the coming permanent placement of the toe rails.

The bow cap had some gaps that required some attention.  The issue was where the toe rails terminated at the bow cap, and with material already removed, I needed to solve the problem by "adding" teak to the joinery.  In hind site, I would have placed the toe rails first, and then placed the bow cap.  The issues resulted in first placing the bow cap, removing too much material from the joints, and then placing the toe rails.  Templating off already placed toe rails would have ensured that I removed the correct amount of material. 

I should say first off, the amount of the gap is small....but it's too much for ME to bear, so I am addressing it.  

I applied to small portions of 1/4" thick teak to the inboard face of the bow cap toe rail termination joint.  I will no doubt have to fine tune this surface as I place the bow cap AFTER the toe rails are already in place, but this will ensure a tight joint....a better appearance.  Inching closer to completion!

Total Time Today: 3.5 hrs