Starboard Toe Rail Dry-fit

January 12, 2020

After arriving at the boat in the afternoon, I started on the v-berth floor.   I removed the clamps, marked and pre-drilled for fasteners.  After pre-drilling for the #10 wood screws, I used a countersink to allow the screw to be slightly recessed.  The plan was to recess the screw and apply a fairing compound over the top to hide the screw head.  I managed to install all the screws, further securing the cleats, but then had the balance of my time taken up by the initial install of the starboard toe rail.

I erected a few lines, fore and aft, to support the unwieldy length of toe rail, and to help align the rail as I worked my way from the bow to the stern installing the fasteners.

I am using #12-24 machine screws for the installation of the toe rails, backed by locking nuts and nylon washer.  For today's dry-fit, I used a forstner bit to first create a space for bungs to be inserted, but then used a pilot drill bit for the #12-24 tap.  

As I moved aft, I drilled for the bung, drilled the pilot hole, tapped for the machine screw, and finally screwed the #12-24 machine screw securely in place.

I will repeat the process for the 32 fasteners on the port side...a milestone for me on refits that involve new brightwork.

Total Time Today: 3.5 hrs

Bow Cap, Lazarette Hatch, and V-berth Floor

January 11, 2020

I was a bit unfocused in my work today, but nevertheless managed to get to a few different aspects of the boat.  I had intended to drill-fit the toe rails today, other to-dos would take priority.

I started with the fine-tuning the fit of the bow cap; and afterward, made several marks to determine the location of the fasteners.  I chose #12-24 machine screws for the installation for he bow cap, backed with locking washers and nylon nuts.

After determining the location of the fasteners, I transferred the marks onto the bow cap itself and then used a forstner bit drill out a shallow 1/2" diameter void that eventually will be bunged.  I placed the bow cap on the boat, and drilled pilot holes for the six fasteners.  I then removed the bow cap and tapped the holes with the #12-24 tap.  I placed the bow cap back on the boat, securing with two machine screws for the dry-fit...all good...and then pulled the bow cap off.  I will reinstall the bow cap as I dry-fit the toe rails in the coming days.

I moved on to the lazarette hatch.  I needed to mark the location of the install, with hinges, in order to mark the location of the fasteners that will penetrate the aft deck.  The aft deck is cored, and in order to protect that coring I needed to drill and oversized hole through the top skin and balsa core, leaving the bottom skin, and then fill with thickened epoxy.  Once the epoxy is cured, I will replace the hatch and then drill and tap for the #10 silicone bronze machine screws.  

Here is the port deck drilled out....

...and the starboard side.

Using 406 colloidal silica, I thickened some epoxy resin and pushed it into the enlarged holes.  After it cures, I will sand fair to the surrounding deck, and then drill and tap for the new fasteners.  

With the hatch fastener holes taken as far as I could, I turned my attention back to the v-berth floor.  I water-washed the epoxy coating on the underside of the floor, and then sanded it thoroughly to prepare for additional epoxy work.  I carried the new support cleats to the boat along with clamps and both epoxy resin neat and epoxy resin thickened.  Working quickly, I wiped off the oils from the teak cleats, painted them with epoxy resin, and then placed a bit of thickened epoxy on their inside edges. One at a time, I placed the cleats into position and then firmly clamped them in place.  I removed and epoxy squeeze out as a result of the clamping pressure.  In the next work session, I will removed the clamps, pre-drill, and then further secure the clamps with #10 wood screws, recessed and covered with fairing compound.  

Total Time Today: 4 hrs

Fabricating V-Berth Floor

January 5, 2020

I had intentions, upon arrival at the boat, to move straight into water-washing and sanding the fairing compound I applied the day previous.  However, due to some lower overnight temperatures, I decided to push out the sanding and priming of the cockpit in order to give the epoxy fairing compound more time to fully cure.  So instead, I turned my attention to one of the last items on the interior of the boat - the floor in the v-berth.  This floor used to contain the head and two through-hulls (one for the seawater intake and one for the discharge of waster).  When the boat came in to the yard, this space was occupied by a portable head (now in the rubbish), and the two through-hulls had been capped by a household/commercial type of pipe end-fitting.

I started by templated the space for the new floor.  I choose a piece of scrap plywood that was the same thickness as the soon to be new meranti plywood.  I then hot-glued a series of stir sticks (they are actually tongue depressors that I've been using for years now as stir sticks) to the plywood with the outboard edges just touching the fiberglass surfaces.

Back in the shop, I flipped the template over and laid it out onto the last sizable portion of 3/4" meranti that I had on hand.  I transferred the outermost dimensions of the template onto the plywood...and essentially connected the dots.  I paused for the moment on the new floor and moved back out to the boat.

I outlined and enlarged opening for the shallow space below the soon to be new floor, and with an oscillating tool cut the new opening.  While I was down in this space, I re-sanded the surface of the bilge in order to reapply the gray barrier coat / bilge paint.

I undertook an iterative process of fitting-sanding-refitting the new floor until I was happy with the fit.  I then used the access hole on the aft end of this small platform, with the incredibly short pencil seen below, to make some outline marks of the opening onto the bottom surface of the floor.  The purpose here was two-fold: both to outline where the supporting cleats could be installed and then also where the access hatch could be cut out.

I made several marks on the bottom of the new floor for locations of cleats and the cut line for the access hatch. 

I cut 5 lengths of teak to form the supportive cleat structure.

Finally, I cut out the access hatch.

After sanding and easing the edges of the floor and access hatch, I assembled for a test fit.  The bottom of the floor would be sealed with epoxy resin and the bottom of the acmes hatch would be painted - both finished today.

Prior to installing the new floor I painted out the bilge space below, painting a couple spots that were tucked tight into corners that I could not reach with the smaller, previous access.  I also renewed the majority of the bilge space with a new coat of paint.  I had planned to install the cleats prior to tabbing the new floor in place, but due to a looming deadline today I got ahead of myself in the process.  No worries though, as I will simply secure with epoxy glue and screws from the top surface of the floor and then finish the countersunk screw heads with  fairing compound prior to primer and topcoat paint.

Total Time Today: 4.5 hrs

New Teak Winch Bases, Deadlight Spacers, and Spot Fairing the Cockpit

January 4, 2020

Upon arriving at the boat, I got started with transferring the shape of the top surface of the molded fiberglass winch cubbies to cardboard; thereby creating a more sturdy template to use in transferring the shape onto a fresh length of teak.

I managed to cull a nice length of 8" wide teak from the inventory.  The board was 1.25" thick, so it would need to be planed down by 1/4".  I laid out the new winch base templates onto the teak and transferred the shapes in order to cut it out.

Prior to removing the new winch bases from the fresh teak, I ran the board through the planer to remove a 1/4" of the board's thickness.  Next, I used a jigsaw to remove the new winch bases from the teak board.

I cleaned up the edges, and then routed an ogee around the outboard edges of the winch bases.  

After further fine-tuning with sand paper, I applied a thinned coat of Epifanes Clear Gloss varnish the bases - a sealer coat.

Next on my list for the day would be finishing the new deadlight spacers.  Because the laminate of the cabin sides is but a hair over 1/4" thick, the deadlights and interior frames would bottom out without a spacer.  When the boat came in to the yard, the spacers being used appeared to be cut-outs from pieces of white starboard, and gooped up with copious amounts of butyl tape.  I enjoy a good butyl tape application here and again, but this was ridiculous.  Anyway, the plastic spacers went into the trash, and I set out fabricating some new spacers out of teak.  For both of the cabin's deadlights, I selected 1/2" pieces of teak to then glue-up in a rudimentary rectangular shape.  I cut the lengths and widths to sizes that would allow for the correct dimension so that I could remove the new spacers, custom for each deadlight.  The first thing I did was to line up the rough teak frame onto the deadlight itself, then clamp the two pieces together.  I then flipped the assembly over, and transferred the inside edge of the deadlight onto the teak.

Using a compass, I scribed a secondary, outer line around the inside line, creating the dimensions for the spacer to then cut out of the fresh teak.  I accomplished this with the jigsaw.

After cleaning up the edges, I placed the new spacer onto the deadlight and was satisfied with the fit.

I repeated the same process for the other deadlight, and then sealed the spacers with a thinned coat of Epifanes Clear Gloss varnish.

The last thing I wanted to knock out for the day was to spot fair the cockpit one more time.  With good daylight left, I took my time and slowly covered the surface of the cockpit looking for voids and pinholes - I found plenty.  I donned a used 150-grit disc of sandpaper and a pencil, then set out to sand and mark each area requiring filling and fairing.

After I sanded and marked each spot, I came back with the vacuum and removed the sanding dust.  I followed that effort with a quick solvent wipe down.

Using TotalBoat TotalFair, I mixed the components of the two-part fairing compound and applied it with a small squeegee.  I made sure that the the fairing compound was adequately pushed into the voids and that the fairing material stood a bit proud of it surrounding surfaces.  

I decided to fill in the old / original coaming block return fastener holes on the cabin sides, opting to drill out new ones when I install the new brightwork.  I tapered each side of the old fastener holes, and with a small patch of sandpaper sanded the interior of the fastener holes.  After solvent-washing the holes, I taped off the interior side and applied fairing compound to the exterior opening.  I later came back to remove the tape and apply a skim coat to the interior side.  I'll fair the surfaces by sanding them, and then apply primer paint.

Total Time Today: 4.5 hrs

Priming (Cockpit, Landing Platform, and Bow Repair)

January 3, 2020

I made it out to the boat today, after running some errands in the morning, and got to work on the day's goal - applying primer paint to various parts and surfaces on the boat.  To start, I jumped up in the cockpit.  I began by sanding a few areas that required another coat of primer, as well as a recent repair to the starboard seating.  I sanded with a gently used piece of 120-grit paper, by hand.  After vacuuming and solvent-washing the area, I applied the Interlux Prime-Kote 2-part epoxy primer.  I used a foam brush for the tight spots, and a foam roller for the larger field surfaces.   

I progressed on to the boat.  I water-washed the latest (third) round of skim coat that I applied to the bow's laminate repair area.  Again, the Flag Blue paint would give the repair away unless the surface was faired more than just "good".  After water-washing any surface contaminate from the cured TotalBoat TotalFair fairing compound, I sanded with 180-grit paper, using the 5" RO.  Knowing that I had a few other pieces to prime with the gray primer (the Alexseal primer in this instance), I headed over to the shop to prepare those pieces.

For now, I needed to prime a few components of the landing platform / battery box: the sides of the box, a cleat to be installed on the cabin floor, and the supports for the sides of the box / platform. I cleaned the mahogany with acetone, and then set them on supports where I was able.

I mixed the Alexseal epoxy-based (also a 2-part system) primer, and then waited for the chemicals to react to the point that I was ready to apply it.  While I waited for the paint to do its thing, I headed over to the boat to solvent-clean the surfaces to be primed (the bow repair as well as the motor mount area).  By the time I made it back, it was time to begin painting.  I went ahead and applied a coat to the landing platform / battery box components.

Next, I headed over to the bow to apply the first coat there.

Finally, I made my way aft and painted out the areas around and including the motor mount.  Post photo, I  also painted out the interior of the holes drilled to accept the actual electric motor.  I repeated this dance three times, finishing up one of the three areas to be painted and then moving on to the next.  By the time I was done with one, the next was ready for another coat.  Did I mention that it was 81 degrees today!

With the painting concluded, I went ahead and made some templates for the teak new winch pads - to be mounted on top of the molded cubby outboard of the coaming boards.  The new teak coaming boards will have a hole cut into them to provide access to these cubbies - great for storing winch handles. 

Total Time Today: 3.75 hrs

Shaping the Toe Rails, Laminate Repair (Bow), and Measuring for Fasteners

January 1, 2020

Happy New Year!  I made a fairly early start on the boat today, arriving and getting to work by 11am...pretty good after having a late night that included champagne, among other cocktail imbibe-ables.

I started on the toe rails on arrival.  After removing the protective plastic sheeting (during the epoxy glue-up process) and tape guarding the teak surrounding the glue joints, I began sanding with 180-grit discs.  I choose a higher grit disc in order to "creep up" on the desired sanding results.  This wasn't just sanding down a length of 24' + toe rail; rather, it was sanding down a length of 24' + toe rail FOUR times...so, this was a bit of an exercise.  When I completed the sanding, removing all of the excess epoxy squeeze out, I turned my attention to shaping the outboard and inboard surface of the rails.

I wanted a "softer" edge on the outboard side and a bit more vertical on the inboard side of the toe rail.  To that end, I outfitted the small laminate router with a 1/2" round over for the outboard edge and a 1/4" round over for the inboard edge.

The results looked really great.  I was happy with the profile of the rails, and so choose to move forward.  There was a bit of a rough edge on the cut lines, so I cleaned those up by hand....moving up and down the rail until the surfaces were suitably blended.

I chose to leave the forward and aft ends of the toe rails untouched for now, since I would also be custom shaping the joinery with both the bow cap and the taff rail.

The port toe rail had a bit of checking that required filling with epoxy in order to stabilize the rail.  I was slightly worried about how this area may behave during installing, bending the rail into the profile of the boat's outboard lines.  I mixed an ounce and a half of epoxy resin, used that to wet out the areas requiring fill work, and then proceeded to thicken the balance of the resin with wood filler (fine saw dust I had collected from past work).  The wood filler served a couple purposes: thickening the resin so that I could work the material into the toe rail voids and have it stay there, and also to color match (more or less) the teak wood tones.

I taped off the work areas prior to wetting them out and filling them.  I'll come back in the next couple days, remove the tape, and then sand to fair in the surfaces.

I was really hoping to prime the bow laminate repair...today, along with the motor mount area, but alas no.  After sanding the second round of fairing compound, I ran my hand across the surface a good 5-dozen times, and was just not happy with what I was feeling.  Knowing that the Alexseal ($) Flag Blue would show all surface inconsistencies, I knew I had to apply a third coat.  I cleaned the surface up with acetone, mixed another small batch of fairing compound, and applied it with a 10" knife to help spread and bridge any low spots.

My last order of business was to begin measuring and tallying the fastener needs for brightwork installations.  I started with the toe rails, port side aft.  I decided on a 9" spacing pattern, more of less.  Meaning that if I encountered a hull-to-deck joint fastener I would give an inch to either side of that fastener, maintaining roughly 9" of spacing along the entirety of the rail - 66 total fasteners required: #12 - 24 machine screws, 1.75" in length; requiring washers and nuts

Next, I measured for the coaming boards.  I decided on a spacing pattern of 2 screws every 12", for a total of 28 fasteners, 1/4" - 20 machine screws, 3" in length; requiring washers and nuts.

I moved on to the bow cap.  Here I decided to opt for 3 crews on each side, for a total of 6 fasteners - #12 - 24 machine screws, 1.75" in length; requiring washers and nuts.

The taff rail came next.  Due to the compound curves that the taff rail would take upon installation, I chose a robust 1/4" - 20 machine screw, 1.5" in length; requiring washers and nuts.

Finally, I moved into the boat to measure for the battery box and landing platform - at least a few components of it.  The supports for the landing platform - two per side - would call for a total of 12 1/4" - 20 machine screws, 1.75" in length; requiring washers and nuts.  I also selected fasteners for the battery cradle - to secure the battery forward and aft as well as side to side.  Here, I selected 4 1/4" - 20 machine screws, 1.75" in length; requiring washers and nuts.

All fasteners measured for today would be 316 stainless steel.

Total Time Today: 6 hrs