Bow Cap, Lazarette Hatch, and V-berth Floor

January 11, 2020

I was a bit unfocused in my work today, but nevertheless managed to get to a few different aspects of the boat.  I had intended to drill-fit the toe rails today, other to-dos would take priority.

I started with the fine-tuning the fit of the bow cap; and afterward, made several marks to determine the location of the fasteners.  I chose #12-24 machine screws for the installation for he bow cap, backed with locking washers and nylon nuts.

After determining the location of the fasteners, I transferred the marks onto the bow cap itself and then used a forstner bit drill out a shallow 1/2" diameter void that eventually will be bunged.  I placed the bow cap on the boat, and drilled pilot holes for the six fasteners.  I then removed the bow cap and tapped the holes with the #12-24 tap.  I placed the bow cap back on the boat, securing with two machine screws for the dry-fit...all good...and then pulled the bow cap off.  I will reinstall the bow cap as I dry-fit the toe rails in the coming days.

I moved on to the lazarette hatch.  I needed to mark the location of the install, with hinges, in order to mark the location of the fasteners that will penetrate the aft deck.  The aft deck is cored, and in order to protect that coring I needed to drill and oversized hole through the top skin and balsa core, leaving the bottom skin, and then fill with thickened epoxy.  Once the epoxy is cured, I will replace the hatch and then drill and tap for the #10 silicone bronze machine screws.  

Here is the port deck drilled out....

...and the starboard side.

Using 406 colloidal silica, I thickened some epoxy resin and pushed it into the enlarged holes.  After it cures, I will sand fair to the surrounding deck, and then drill and tap for the new fasteners.  

With the hatch fastener holes taken as far as I could, I turned my attention back to the v-berth floor.  I water-washed the epoxy coating on the underside of the floor, and then sanded it thoroughly to prepare for additional epoxy work.  I carried the new support cleats to the boat along with clamps and both epoxy resin neat and epoxy resin thickened.  Working quickly, I wiped off the oils from the teak cleats, painted them with epoxy resin, and then placed a bit of thickened epoxy on their inside edges. One at a time, I placed the cleats into position and then firmly clamped them in place.  I removed and epoxy squeeze out as a result of the clamping pressure.  In the next work session, I will removed the clamps, pre-drill, and then further secure the clamps with #10 wood screws, recessed and covered with fairing compound.  

Total Time Today: 4 hrs