Sanding the Coachroof, Foredeck and Cockpit Well

June 30, 2019

I was looking to get the coachroof and foredeck nearly faired this weekend, but alas I ran out of resin required to achieve that goal.  I ordered more epoxy resin, that would arrive tomorrow, and then progressed forward with the sanding.  After water-washing all of the areas I had previously applied epoxy fairing compound to, I began sanding on the coachroof.  I worked the entirety of the surface with the Bosch 6", knocking down all of the obvious high spots and then blended in the small height variances caused by the 10" knife I used to apply the previous round of fairing compound. 

After a thorough sanding of the area, I applied a straightedge to identify the few remaining low spots.  These low spots would require fairing compound, and so would have to wait.

Next, I moved on to the foredeck.  The foredeck repair is nearly complete, and after sanding the previous day's application of fairing compound, I could see that only an additional skim coat in a few areas would be needed.

I moved back to the cockpit well and sanded the recent core repair at the aft end.  The surface would need at least a couple skim coats of fairing compound as well.  In addition to this large repair area, I also hand-sanded numerous spots around the cockpit well that had been previously filled.  The many corners and tight radius transitions between perpendicular surfaces within the cockpit well make for time consuming hand-sanding work.  Give me large swaths of deck and hull sides any day!

After completing the sanding on the exterior surfaces for the day, I moved below.  Twisting and contorting my head, arms and shoulders through the cockpit locker hatches, I managed to sand the recently applied tabbing and hull surfaces that the peel ply could not cover.  Those areas that were not covered by the peel ply were water-washed at the beginning of the work today, and now with the amine blush removed I could scuff up the surfaces to prepare for paint.

The cockpit well is very stable now, I've eliminated the "creaking and popping" sounds at the aft end.

Using a small 5" random orbital sander, I sanded and removed what loose material remained on the forward side of the lazarette bulkhead.  

I worked from starboard to port with the 5" sander and 40-grit discs.

The entirety of the space accessed by the cockpit locker hatches would be painted out with the epoxy-based TotalBoat TotalProtect system - gray in color; not blue ;-)

I completed the work on the port side.  With the heat index being as high as it was, as well as not having resin to continue with the fairing, I decided to knock for the day.  In the next session, I'll be focusing in on completing the fairing of the coachroof and foredeck, as well as painting out the space beneath the cockpit locker hatches.

Total Time Today: 4 hrs

Sanding & Fairing the Coachroof and Foredeck, and Installation of the Cockpit Well Support Bulkhead

June 29, 2019

Even with the recoring of the aft portion of the cockpit well, I decided to move forward with the installation of a small support bulkhead.  There has been some movement in the aft portion of the cockpit itself, "creaking and popping" sound coming from the general region of the boat.  It turns out, after having cut open the cockpit floor, that the balsa core was no longer in contact with the bottom skin.  As it turned out, the exercise of cutting open the cockpit floor with intentions of recoring the area was the right decision, but the need to support the aft portion of the cockpit well remained.  

I fabricated a template of the space between the hull and the bottom of the cockpit well, and then transferred that onto a piece of 9mm meranti plywood.  In a previous work session, I applied a coat of expose resin to the small bulkhead.  Today, I water-washed the amine blush from the surface and then sanded it with 80-grit paper.  The bulkhead is ready for installation.

I set the aft cockpit well supportive bulkhead to the side for now, and proceeded to work on sanding (fairing) the coachroof and the foredeck.  I had already water-washed the area from a previous work session, so I gathered my tools and materials and headed for the boat.

I used the Bosch 6" sander for the job, and used 80-grit pads.  

On a regular basis, I applied a straightedge to the surface to mark the progress in pulling high spots down to the surrounding surface, as well as marking low spots for further fairing compound application. While I was at it, I sanded the mast step and prepared it for another round of fairing compound.

With the coachroof prepped for another round of fairing compound, I turned my attention forward.  I moved my work materials to the foredeck and prepared to bring this area further into a faired surface.  The foredeck had been worked a few times already, and as a result there wasn't a heck of sanding to do. 

I quickly worked at feathering the edges in around the perimeter.  I then worked a few spots that were standing proud of the balance of the repair area.  With these few spots addressed with the 6" DA sander, I then hand sanded  a multitude of low spots that needed a good scuffing  prior to application of additional epoxy-based fairing compound.  I cleaned the surfaces, including the underside surfaces in the area of the aft cockpit well, by first vacuuming and then solvent-washing to prepare for more epoxy work.

I headed back to the shop to prepare the tabbing cuts of 1708 biaxial cloth for the installation of the small support bulkhead for the aft cockpit well.  I cut two layers forward and aft, for each side (port and starboard) of the bulkhead.  The first layer was 4" in length, the second layer being 8" in length.

I wet out the recently sanded bulkhead, as well as the surfaces within the boat to which the bulkhead and tabbing would be applied, and then installed the bulkhead.

Back in the shop, I applied epoxy resin to the aft-facing tabbing cuts and then set them aside.  I then mixed a batch of epoxy and thickened it with 406 colloidal silica and 407 low-density filler.  With the thickened epoxy, I created fillets at the intersection of the vertical bulkhead surface was the horizontal hull surfaces.  The fillet is a simply a smooth radius transition between to perpendicular surfaces to then allow the fiberglass to lay down without any voids beneath.  With the fillets applied, I then set the tabbing in place, working out any trapped air to ensure as good a surface bond as possible.

With the aft-facing tabbing in place, I then applied a layer of peel ply to the tabbing.  The peel ply will pull the amine blush through to the surface, and once  I rip off the peel ply then I'll be ready for any further epoxy work - no need for sanding!  

I repeated the steps for the forward-facing tabbing, including the peel ply.  I'll come back in the next session and remove the peel ply, and get ready to paint the area out.

I returned to the coachroof with a fresh batch of thickened epoxy.  Using a 10" and a 6" knife, I applied the fairing compound to the low spots, with the knife I dragged the material across the surface and filled the low spots as I went.  There will likely be one additional round of thickened epoxy fairing compound before she is ready for fine fairing filler (last step prior to priming).

With the coachroof done for the day, I move up to the foredeck and repeated the exercise.  Again, there wasn't as much to do on the foredeck, so I quickly worked a small cup of thickened epoxy into the remaining low spots.  It's likely that I will sand the foredeck and apply a fine fairing filler to complete the repair...and prior to paint.

Total Time Today:  5.75 hrs

Aft Cockpit Support bulkhead, and Miscellaneous Items

June 23, 2019

It would be a shorter work session today, so I got to work on the recent core work on the cockpit floor.  Much to my disappointment, when I stepped onto the recent recore work, I heard the faint "creaking" and "popping" telegraphing an unsupported cockpit well.  Despite the needed repair of the delaminated cockpit floor (bottom skin-to-balsa core), the root cause of the sounds I am hearing is the cockpit well itself flexing.  It is very likely the nature of the design of the cockpit well itself - a rather large access hatch aft of the rudder post may ultimately leave less support than is needed.  

So to correct the issue, I decided to install a supportive bulkhead at the aft end of the cockpit well.  I needed to ensure good access to the rudder post: on the aft end of the cockpit well, and to starboard and port (through the cockpit lockers).

After numerous trips up and down the ladder, to and from the shop, I eventually dialed in the dimensions and form of the supportive bulkhead.  I will eventually fillet the bulkhead and tab it in with multiple layers of 1708 biaxial cloth.

I returned the bulkhead to the shop and painted it out with epoxy resin.  

Back on the boat, I trimmed the overage of new balsa core and single layer of 1708 biaxial installed on the companionway laminate.  I removed the peel ply and trimmed the material with the oscillating tool.  In the next work session, I will apply a coat of fairing compound to blend with the bulkhead surfaces to port and starboard.

A view from above shows a consistent width on the bulkhead, allowing for a more secure companionway trim installation as well as a more sturdy bulkhead.

Total Time Today: 3 hrs

Aft Cockpit & Aft Cabin Bulkhead Core Work, and Misc. Sanding & Fairing

June 22, 2019

It has been on my mind lately that the pace of the project needs to increase just a bit...yes, we have just entered hurricane season and the boat is better off in the relative safety of north Florida, but my goal is to have the owner sailing his Allied 24 by the fall.  With brightwork fabrication, paint, and the auxiliary installation being the remaining large items, I will be pushing the pedal a bit harder going forward. 

There was this annoying little "creak" and "pop" whenever I stepped to the aft of the cockpit, and my numerous attempts to root out the cause of the sounds always came back with an unsatisfying result.  My inclination was that the cockpit well itself was flexing around the rudder post...but delimitation of the core material was persistently trying to argue its case.  I relented and prepared to open up the cockpit floor. 

I marked the area of concern, ensuring that I provided ample room around the perimeter of the cut to taper the top skin in order to lay down new fiberglass and tie the new into the old.

Next, with the oscillating tool, I cut open the topspin and removed it, along with the old core.  What I found was good adhesion of the balsa core to the top skin...but delimitation of the balsa core to the bottom skin.  I believe I found the origins of the "creaks" and "pops"!

With the core removed and the cavity cleaned out, I traced around the opening for the purpose of grinding a taper to allow a smooth transition from new material to old material.  

With the taper prepared in the work area, I thoroughly cleaned it by vacuuming and solvent-washing the surfaces.

During a trip back to the shop (a regular up-and-down-the-ladder experience), I grabbed some plastic sheeting in order to create templates for the new fiberglass cloth (1708 biaxial) and for the 1/2" balsa core.  

Back in the shop, I prepared the new layers of fiberglass (3, in successively larger sizes), and the new core material.

I wet out the balsa core and the surfaces of the cockpit floor with neat epoxy - epoxy resin with no thickening agents.  With the remaining resin in the cup, I thickened it with 406 colloidal silica.  With the thickened epoxy, I troweled a bed of it down onto the surface of the bottom skin, and then pressed the new balsa core into place. 

With the balsa core in place, I came back with another batch of thickened epoxy to spread across the surface of the new balsa core and to press into the small voids around the perimeter of the old and new core.

I hustled back to the shop to wet out the three layers of 1708 biaxial cloth that would form the new top skin.  The "hustle" adjective is a gentlemanly way of saying..."I ran like my ass was on fire!"  The Florida heat punishes those working outside, and those working outside with epoxy resin.  I managed to get the layers wet out and back to the boat to lay down with time to spare, but I could certainly feel the heat coming off due to the exothermic reaction.   I finished the work area with a layer of peel ply...this stuff is the best: no sanding, ready for fairing compound or additional layers of glass.

The last item on the list for the day was to complete the aft bulkhead core work.  The aft bulkhead of the Allied 24 was simply 1/4" thick (if that) solid laminate.  In my opinion, the bulkhead needed some "meat", or reinforcement; it also needed some width dimension to better fit out companionway trim.  So to address those issues, I decided to add 3/8" thick balsa core to the entirety of the cabin's aft bulkhead.  In a previous work session I applied balsa core to the starboard and port side of the cabin's aft bulkhead - to the starboard and port side of the companionway.  I then applied a layer of 1708 biaxial cloth to the starboard and port side and faired the surface...the smallish middle section now required attention in order to complete the bulkhead.

As I had done for the aft cockpit floor, I made a template for the balsa core and single layer of 1708 biaxial cloth.  In the shop, I trimmed a piece of 3/8" balsa core and also cut a layer of 1708 biaxial.  Next, and after solvent-washing the surfaces, I wet out the small section of laminate at the companionway.  With the remaining epoxy resin, I wet out the balsa core and the biaxial cloth.  

I then mixed a pot of the thickened and spread it onto the surface of the companionway laminate - I used a squeegee that I custom altered to include notches like a trowel has.  I pressed the new balsa core into position.  The thickened epoxy grabbed hold of the balsa core and held it in its vertical position.  With the remaining thickened epoxy, I created a rounded fillet between the bottom edge of the balsa core and the interior surface of the original laminate.  This fillet would allow the single layer of 1708 biaxial to neatly lay over the balsa core and then wrap onto the original laminate material.  As described, the application was completed and successful.  I finished the work with a layer of peel ply material.  In the next session, I will apply a coat fairing compound to the aft cockpit and aft cabin bulkhead surfaces.

Total Time Today: 7.75 hrs

Cockpit & Cabin Overhead Sanding

June 15, 2019

It was that kind of day!  Shoulders and fingertips comfortably numb...

I am eager to draw the sanding and faring to a close, and to begin applying paint to the interior...as well as the exterior!  So to that end, I began with a water-wash on the areas that I had recently applied fairing compound, and then toweled those areas dry.  I began the sanding round in the cockpit.  There was a scatter of areas that required sanding work, but I was most excited to get the outboard seat gutters done.  I applied West System's 410 microlight to these areas since they would not be under any routine weight or load stress and because the 410 is suggest an easy product to sand.  The gutters would require hand-sanding; the 410 microlight fairing compound was a welcomed application.

After I had completed the starboard side, I knew I needed to save the port side for another day - just way too much detail work for the current heat and day's work goals.  I moved around and sand 90% of the other areas requiring attention.  I will come back a complete the 10% balance when I tackle the port side seat gutter.

I moved inside the boat and began to sand the outboard edge of the cabin overhead - that intersection between the cabin sides and overhead.  I have been working to fill the small lengthwise void where the overhead bottom skin wraps over the edge of the core and back up to the top skin - just an unsightly design feature.

I worked the starboard and then the port side of the cabin overhead.

I then moved back to sand the fillet I had applied to the aft side of the integrated mast support beam.  I started on the port side, and then worked my way across.

I have plans to place another layer of 1708 biaxial on the integrated mast support beam, and wrap it up onto the forward side of the bulkheads and also up onto the aft side of the bulkheads - just in the doorway space.  The fillet would allow the cloth to lay down nicely.

I finished the day's work forward, in the v-berth.  I pulled the peel ply off the recently applied tabbing, and then water-washed a few areas that potentially did not get good peel ply adhesion.  I came back and lightly scuffed the entirety of the tabbing to prep for paint.

Total Time Today: 4 hrs

Tabbing in the New V-berth Tops

June 9, 2019

With family in town, I made other plans for the morning and through mid-afternoon.  Since there would not be a longer block of work time available to me today, after getting back to the house I got after a smallish project that I had intended for some time - tabbing in the new v-berth tops.  With the v-berth tops tabbed in, and the small amount of overhead fairing and sanding left, I would then be free to paint the forward area of the interior.  

I began with sanding the centerline joint of the two halves.  I created a cavity roughly the thickness of one layer of 1708 biaxial, which when laid down here will further help to tie the two pieces together.    I also sanded the sharp outboard edge of the two v-berth tops to help ease the lazy down of the 1708 biaxial tabbing.  With the sanding finished, I then thoroughly vacuumed and solvent-washed the work area, and finished by marking a 2" inset along the outboard edge of the v-berth and applied tape to protect the surrounding surface from epoxy resin.

I wet out the joint with neat epoxy - no thickening agents added - and the filled the small void between the two halves with thickened epoxy.  The wood now wet with epoxy, I then laid down a strip of 1708 biaxial cloth 2" wide at the aft and narrowing to 1.25" at the forward end.  Over the fiberglass joint, I mixed thickened epoxy and spread it with a wide squeegee to fill the slight concavity along the length of this centerline joint. 

With the centerline finished, I moved to the tabbing of the outboard edges of the v-berth.  I had taken measurements of the length of tabbing to use: 7" in width by 90" in length.  I cut the tabbing from the large roll of 1708 biaxial cloth that I had sourced for the refit project, since the largest of my existing supply of tabbing was 6" in width.  I also cut two lengths of peel ply slightly larger that the tabbing itself.  In the shop, I cut a large piece of plastic sheeting and laid it on the floor, on top of which I laid out the 90"-long pieces of tabbing material, and proceeded to wet these out with epoxy resin.  

With the tabbing material wet out and laying on the plastic sheeting on the floor of my shop, I made my way over to the boat to wet out the area on which I would lay the tabbing - the hull and outboard edge of the v-berth tops.  In the shop, I neatly rolled the tabbing material up, placed them on a scrap piece of cardboard, and headed back to the boat.  

One at a time, I laid out and unrolled the tabbing into position.  I worked along the length of the tabbing pushing out any trapped air bubbles and ensuring that the cloth was uniformly laid down.  I then applied the peel ply over the tabbing, and with a small chip brush in hand, I "painted out" the peel ply over top of the tabbing all the while working the resin into the material.

The pictures above and below show the tabbing in place as well as the peel ply fully saturated (translucent) over top for the tabbing.  The peel ply will pull the amine blush  to the surface through the curing process.  When I pull off the peel ply, the amine blush will come with it.  The peel ply obviates the need for water-washing to the remove the amine blush (a waxy contaminate to further surface prep) and the required sanding to create a surface that has good mechanical bond characteristics.  That would wrap up the day's work.

Total Time Today: 2.75 hrs

Final Sanding/Fairing of the Cabin and V-Berth Overhead & Cockpit Fairing

June 8, 2019

As is the case most often when sanding work is on the docket....I spent most of today with the smallish 5" random orbital sander.  I wanted to get past the cabin fairing and sanding to then move into painting the interior (where possible given other to-dos).  

I started in the cabin, hitting the areas that I had applied a second round of fairing filler to, and then moved into the v-berth space forward of the cabin.  With the sanding completed on the interior surfaces for the day, I came back and solvent-washed the areas that required further work - primarily the space at the intersection of the overhead and cabin sides, as well as the overhead and integral mast support beam intersection.  

A void persisted at the overhead and cabin sides intersection, and my intention was to fill this area for aesthetic purposes. I wet the surfaces out, and then applied thickened epoxy to the void, using a squeegee to shape and smooth out the application of material.

I moved forward and applied a fillet at the intersection of the overhead and integral mast support beam.  I wanted to also "clean" this area up visually, and this fillet would do the job.  I will be applying one last layer of 1708 biaxial cloth to the mast support beam and wrapping up onto the overhead forward and aft of the beam, and this fillet would further allow ease of installation.

I finished with the starboard side; yes, that same "void" between the cabin side and overhead.

I pushed the thickened epoxy mixture in as far forward until the space was adequately filled.

Prior to finishing up the interior for the day, I got to work on the coach roof where the companionway is located.  For some reason the balsa core was left exposed once I had removed the original companionway trim, so this needed attention prior to installing the new trim.

I chose to remove roughly 3/8" of core material between the top and bottom skins of the coach roof construction.  That void was then cleaned and wet out with "neat" epoxy, followed by a liberal application of thickened epoxy.  This barrier, once sanded, would allow for a neat appearance and also prevent any stray H2O molecules from reaching the balsa core material.

Finally, I moved out to the cockpit to continue work in this area of the Allied 24.  I two goals for the day: apply a 410 microlight fairing compound to the water gutter outboard of the seating and at the base of the coamings, and fill the old fastener holes that had previously secured the cockpit locker lids.  I began by vacuuming and then solvent-washing the previously sanded surfaces. I then followed that with a solvent-wash to clear any remaining detritus.

I first applied the 410 microlight to the gutter, and using a wood tongue depressor (an excellent and inexpensive stir tool), spreading the thickened epoxy over the surface that I had prepared with the Makita 1" belt sander as well as the "hand-sander".  The difficulty in getting a tool in there presented by the tight radius of the gutter made my decision to use the microlight filler all the more obvious - the 410 microlight is an easy sand material. 

I then applied a thickened epoxy mixture of 406 colloidal silica and 407 low-density filler to the outboard of the seat locker's raised lip - the locker lids had been secured with fasteners to this outboard lip.  I dished out the old fasteners holes with an angle grinder, essentially creating a tapered surface area to accept more epoxy material.  With the old fastener holes filled, I will come back and sand smooth (aka "fair").

Total Time Today: 5.5 hrs