October 16, 2019
I got started today by removing the clamps from the companionway hatch frame and cleaning up any of the remaining cured epoxy. The glue-up was easy and without complications.
I then set about measuring the location of the aluminum hatch slides, after first cutting the slides to length with the angle grinder and a cut-off wheel attachment. The edge of the hatch slides are set to protrude 5/16" from the outside edge of the outboard frame boards. This flange (i.e. hatch slides) will be captured by the companionway hatch rails.
With the location of the hatch slides known, I move on to marking the location of fasteners that I would need to drill for. Using a small punch, and finding the location of the 5 fasteners (per side) evenly spaced, I tapped an indentation for the drill bit to center onto.
I drilled out the holes for the fasteners on the bench top drill press, and then tapered the holes for the fasteners to recess into.
Placing the hatch slides onto the hatch frame, I marked the transferred the location of the holes onto the frame itself. I then drilled 1/8" pilot holes for the #10 wood screws, and fastened the hatch slides to the frame.
I couldn't resist test-fitting the hatch and companionway rails - all fit nicely, with the hatch sliding unencumbered.
With the companionway hatch taken as far as I could due to not having a supply of epoxy resin, I turned my attention to the other hatches. With the teak decking caulk fully cured, I could now sand the over fill...and apply the first full coat of varnish. From my supply cabinet, I pulled a fresh quart of Epifanes varnish to apply to the hatches.
After sanding the lazarette hatch with 150-grit paper, I applied a lightly thinned coat of Epifanes high gloss varnish.
Similarly, I applied varnish to the forward hatch.
Total Time Today: 4 hrs
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