Building the Lazarette Hatch (Pt 3)

September 22, 2019

I started off the day by removing the clamps from the lazarette hatch frame and top, glued up in the previous work session.  With the router, and flush cut bit, I removed the overhanging material from the top.  With that complete, I outfitted the router with a 1/2" round-over bit and cut the profile desired.

In the process of removing the overhanging material (with the flush cutting bit), the guide bearing fell off and dug into the side of the hatch frame and top.  #$*@!  

Undeterred, I used a smaller flush cutting bit, set up with a fence to control the depth of cut, and removed the error from the side of the hatch.  I used a piece of teak from the same board used to make the hatch to prepare a patch to glue in.  I set this to the side for now.

Continuing with the task for the day, I used the small laminate router to cut the grooves in the hatch top (between the slats), to accept the black teak decking caulk.

I moved the hatch back over to the boat, along with a level and the compass. I had made the height of the hatch frame a bit higher than should be, to account for the camber in the deck. The excess material will no be removed by scribing the camber of the poop deck onto the lower portion of the hatch frame.

Back in the woof shop, I used the jigsaw to remove this excess material.  I then sanded the freshly cut area with 80-grit and 150-grit paper to smooth out any rough surfaces.  I also slight beveled the surface of the hatch frame that contacts the deck.  The fit was great....time to patch the hole.

I cleaned up the edges with a chisel, and thorough solvent-wiped the area to prep for expose work.

To protect the surrounding wood surface from unnecessary epoxy contact, I taped off the area around it.  I then solvent wiped the piece of teak to be used for the patch.  With all surfaces prepped, I wet out the surfaces tube glued together with epoxy resin.  With the balance of resin left in the cup, I thickened it with West System 406 colloidal silica.

I buttered the thickened epoxy onto the surface of the hatch and also onto the teak patch.  I then set the patch in place, and tapped it into position with a hammer.

I cleaned up any squeeze out, and removed the tape.  In the coming days, I will use the router to remove any excess material from the patch, and then seal with a thinned coat of varnish.

Total Time Today: 4 hrs