Ready but Not Ready, for Dorian

August 31, 2019

The Allied 24 Greenwich is tied down, loose contents removed.  The work space cover is anchored and tied down as well, the thousands of dollars of [gorgeous] teak have been moved into the shop, and we are as ready as we can be.

Prayers for the denizens of the beautiful east coast of the United States.

Final Install of the Seacocks and New Cabin Settee Tops

August 31, 2019

With Hurricane Dorian inching closer, I wasted no time with getting the bottom sealed up.  I had the new seacocks dry-fit, but now needed to effect the final install.  I got to work by grabbing all the tools and material I would need for the task, and headed over to the boat.  I first removed the thru-hulls and sanded the surface in preparation for both the application of Sitkaflex 291-Lot to bed the screws, thru-hulls, and seacocks, as well as thickened epoxy to cover the recessed screw heads. 

With the 5" random orbital sander and a couple 80-grit discs, I removed bottom paint and sanded the epoxy barrier coat paint I had recently applied.

Happy with the work, I wiped the surfaces with acetone and moved on to "gooping" up the components with Sitkaflex for the install.

I began by applying a generous amount of Sitka Flex to two screw heads, opposing ones on the four-screw/four-corner pattern, and inserted them.

I covered the two screws (four shown inserted below) and pushed them into their slots, and then covered them with tape. 

I moved up into the boat and placed some of the bedding compound on the seacock base plate and around the screw holes. 

I then generously applied the polyurethane bedding compound to the bottom surface of the seacock, and placed it onto its base plate.  I then moved back outside the boat and repeated the process for the other two opposing screws.

With the seacock in position, and all four screws penetrating up through the boat, base plate, and seacock, I then threaded on the backing bolts.  Being a one-man job, I applied my helpers to each of the backing bolts and headed back out of the boat to tighten the screws down.

With all four screws and bolts tightened securely, I cleaned up the squeeze out polyurethane.  You can see good squeeze out between the top surface of the base plate and the bottom surface of the seacock by looking up through the thru-hull opening in the photo below.

My next task was to insert and tighten down the thru-hull fitting itself.  I applied a good amount of the Sitkaflex to the base of the thru-hull - there is a groove recessed around the inside of the thru-hull flange to help create a water-tight gasket upon installation.  

I inserted the thru-hull and threaded it into the seacock.  I then used my thru-hull wrench to tighten the thru-hull securely in place.  I removed the squeeze out, and generally cleaned up the installation.   repeated the same process of installation for the starboard side of the boat.

At this point, I moved back up into the boat to continue the installation of the new settee tops.  I needed to get the seacocks installed before I moved on to installing the cabin tops, and this was primarily due to an easier installation of the seacocks without the smaller opening of the settee tops in place.  The seacocks can be removed, replaced, or serviced with the new settee tops in place, but the job of installation was made easier without them installed.  

That said, I was now ready to install the settee tops.  Starting on the port side of the boat, I use a sheet  of plastic to template the shape of the existing fiberglass molded settee top.  While the plastic was in place over the fiberglass surface, I transferred the locations where I had removed the gelcoat down to bare fiberglass onto the plastic sheeting.  These ground locations would be the glue points for the thickened epoxy to anchor down the new meranti plywood tops.

I secured the plastic sheeting template to the bottom of the new meranti plywood settee top, and transferred the "anchor points" to the bottom of the new settee top.

I then sanded the areas that would be in contact with the thickened epoxy.  The GREY! paint that I applied the bottom surface of the settee top is epoxy-base paint, so to get the best mechanical bond possible, I needed to sand the surface.

I wet out both the fiberglass molded settee as well as the bottom surface of the new meranti settee top - in the anchor point areas only.

Next, I applied thickened epoxy to the anchor points on the molded fiberglass settee top.

Setting the new meranti plywood settee top in place, I weighted the top to ensure good contact between plywood, thickened epoxy, and fiberglass.

I repeated the process for the starboard side of the boat.

The next task for the settee tops is to tab them with 1708 biaxial tape on their outboard edge, as it comes into contact with the hull.

I moved back outside to complete the install of the seacocks.  More specifically, to cover the recessed screw heads with thickened epoxy.  I again thoroughly wiped the surface with acetone, and then mixed a small batch of thickened epoxy.

With a plastic squeegee in hand, I firmly pressed the thickened epoxy into the screw head recess, and faired it as best I could.  I took a bot of time on this so that I could most likely sand and then coat with epoxy prior to painting with the barrier coat.  Installation looked tidy.

Total Time Today: 4.25 hrs

Ongoing Build of the Landing Platform / Battery Box (Part 2)

August 25, 2019

It was an unbearably hot weekend, and the work time devoted to the Allied 24 reflected the unpleasant conditions.  I was able to get a couple hours in today, but honestly was disappointed in not being able to commit more time to the restoration.

I picked up where I had left off on the battery box / companionway landing platform, with continuing the mounting platform for the Torqeedo battery itself weighs in at 80 lbs., and as such, would require a substantial tie-down system.  I fabricated a couple beefy teak blocks for the battery to rest on - allowing for good air circulation around the entirety of the battery surface.  These teak blocks would be secured to the fiberglass cabin sole with 5/16" stainless steel machine screws, with nylon backing nuts.

The battery would then be restricted on all four sides with brackets mounted to the track blocks.  Along the length of the battery, port and starboard, two 1" wide lengths of webbing would keep the battery from lifting off of the track blocks - more on that in the coming photos.

I placed the battery onto the teak blocks, and one by one, slide the brackets in place.  I fine-tuned the position of the battery until I was satisfied with its orientation.  Next, I hot-glued the loose brackets onto the track blocks.  I did this so that the brackets would not shift when I removed the battery from the teak blocks.  With the battery removed and the brackets' alignments preserved, I marked the location of fasteners that I would need to install secure the brackets in place.  

I pre-drilled for #10 and #8 fasteners, and then installed the brackets.  I checked the fit the brackets by again moving the battery into position - all aligned perfectly.  I then removed the outboard brackets so that I could use a forstner bit to drill a recess for the 5/16" bolt and washer, used to secure the track blocks to the cabin sole.  I will tap the cabin sole to accept the 5/16" machine screw, further adding to the security of installation.

With the 5/16" machine screw holes drilled, I again placed the battery onto its mount.  The brackets used for the 1" webbing tie-down can be seen in the photo below.  There will be two pairs of brackets secured to the cabin sole, and will serve to "lock" the battery onto the track blocks.  

Aside from the battery mounting system, I also continued work on the battery box itself - I continued to refine the top panel of the box, as well as re-fabricating the side panels to extend the entire length of the battery box / companionway landing platform.  This should be completed in the next work session, as long as I receive the ordered fasteners.

Total Time Today: 2 hrs

Ongoing Build of the Landing Platform / Battery Box

August 24, 2019

Getting back on the boat, I picked up where I had left off a few days prior - working on building the companionway landing platform / battery box.  I started today by jointing a cleat to mount on the upper portion of the forward panel of the battery box.  

  

With the cleat jointed and ready for install, I laid it out on the forward panel and marked the cleat to pre-drill for #10 wood screw 1.25" long.

The cleat was quickly secured to the forward panel.

On the boat, I worked to align the cleat to be secured to the cabin sole and to help support the forward panel of the battery box.  This cleat will be installed on the inside of the battery box (i.e. hidden from sight).  I settled on the location, pre-drilled to then tap the fiberglass cabin sole for #10/24 fasteners.

With the cleat on the cabin sole secured, I moved the panel into position for a test fit.

I made sure all was level prior to moving forward with additional work.

The picture below shows the forward panel in place.

My next task was to install the side-mounted cleats, to support the side panels of the battery box.  My intent with the build is to provide a platform to step onto coming into the boat, as well as a compartment to house the battery, but to also make it easy to disassemble in case maintenance was required.  The battery box will also incorporate ample venting to support airflow.  I found the position for the aft side-mount cleat, using the side panel to ensure it was in line with the forward panel, and then marked to pre-drill.

I then tapped the holes for 1/4" fasteners, and secured the side cleats, forward and aft.

The picture below shows the forward panel and starboard side panel of the battery box.

I repeated the exercise on the port side, locating the side cleats, marking them for pre-drilling, and then tapping for fasteners.  With the side cleats mounted, I placed the side panel in position.

I had just enough time today to rough cut the top panel of the battery box, and placed it into position.

The sides of the top panel would be trimmed to align flush with the side panels, but the forward portion of the top panel would be left as a slight overhang.  In the coming session, I will work to complete the box, and then to continue on the interior supports for the battery itself.

Total Time Today: 3 hrs

Building the Landing Platform / Battery Box

August 18, 2019

Making further headway toward completion of the interior, I moved today to begin and hopefully complete the fabrication of the battery box, or landing platform as the owner would step into the boat from the companionway.  I began by taking the battery from its packaging, and then taking several measurements from it.  I then made my way back over to boat and mentally worked through iterations of how the battery could be both secured and stowed safely away while at the same time creating a step for entry into the cabin.  Satisfied with a plan, I moved back into the shop to execute on it.

My first order of business was to create the side supports for the landing platform.  The side supports would be two 5" X 23" meranti plywood cuts.  These plywood supports would be further supported by a total of three cleats per side, starboard and port, secured by machine screws.  With the plywood supports cut, I then grabbed some shop material for the cleats to support the side supports.  I had a nice chunk of mahogany in the off-cuts bin that would serve well for the cleats.  My intention was to prepare enough material for the cleats so that when I cut a rabbit on the upper portion there would still be enough material to provide support for the landing platform and ensuing foot traffic.

The picture below shows the rabbit cut into the outboard surface of the cleat, holding the side support.  The cleats will be secured to the molded fiberglass settee with machine screws and backing washers and nut, the side supports will slot into position and also secured with machine screws.

With the side supports at least fabricated, I could now turn my attention to creating the forward vertical panel of the battery box / landing platform.  I had just enough hot glue to secure a portion of cardboard to a 1" x 2" section of lumber.  The cardboard, supported by the dimensional lumber, hung free from touching either side or the cabin sole.  Being out of glue sticks, I used tongue depressors (stir sticks really, since I did not attend dental school), to act as tick points in order to transfer the surface of the molded fiberglass settee and cabin sole to a section of meranti plywood.

Back in the shop, I laid out the crude but effective template onto a piece of 3/4" meranti plywood, and then transferred the apex of each of the tongue depressors onto the plywood.  I then used a straight edge and connected the reference points, creating a pattern of the forward panel for me to cut out.

I removed the front panel from the meranti plywood with a jigsaw, and headed over to the boat for a test fit.  I was surprised to see the first attempt at dialing in the fit of the forward panel was, well, a perfect fit!

I made sure the panel was level before marking reference lines on the cabin sole and vertical surfaces of the settee sides.

I set the front panel to the side for now and got started on the battery mounts - sections of wood that are to be secured to the cabin sole, but will also help to secure the batter.  In the picture below, I used a scrap piece of cardboard and a compass to transfer the cabin sole contours onto the cardboard.

I carefully cut out the cardboard, to reflect the cabin sole surface, and then applied it to the battery supports I had just prepared from a block of teak I had in the shop.  I had to transfer the cabin sole only to the aft battery support.  This was due to the narrowing of the flat cabin sole surface as one moved aft; the forward battery support fit well within it space on the cabin sole.

Below, I have cut out the robust battery supports (teak beams!), and then used the router table and a 1/4" round over bit to ease the edges of the material.

I simply ran out of time for the day, but made great progress of creating the battery box / landing platform.  The only remaining component of the batter box was the actual lid, or landing platform.  I was able to pre-drill for the cleat to support the forward panel, and scrounge up some machine screws for the forward panel cleat and batter supports themselves.

Total Time Today: 4.25 hrs

Installing Female Mold of the Torqeedo Mounting Block

August 17, 2019

I was excited to get moving on the electric motor installation, as well as completing the final repairs to the old outboard engine opening.  Because the owner has selected the Torqeedo Cruise 4.0 FP (Fixed Pod), and equivalent 8hp outboard motor, there is not need for the engine opening in the counter of the boat.  To date, I have begun to enclose the old opening by laying up a few layers of fiberglass from the interior of the lazarette locker.  I will plan to lay glass on the exterior of the repair when the female mold for the Torqeedo's mounting block in glued in place.  Gluing, with thickened epoxy, the mold in place was the order of business for the day.    

I began by making sure the mounting block (black elongated oval shown below) sat in its female mold in a level orientation...and first making sure that the shop table sat level.  Next, I removed the black mounting block from the female mold and then hot-glued the small level and wooden block construct, shown below, onto the female mold.

I returned to the boat and placed the female mold into position underneath the counter of the boat, secured by a couple wood braces.

The idea here is to use the small level, not hot-glued onto the female mold itself, to ensure that this mounting surface stays in its proper orientation as I brace it for a period of time to allow for the thickened epoxy to cure.  The orientation I was going for was level on an athwartship basis.

A side view, below, shows the female mold dry-fitted and braced into its future home, with a slight downward orientation, to aft, of the mounting block, represented by the small wooden blocks. 

Happy with how things looked, and the process for securing the position of the female mold whilst the epoxy cured, I moved forward with prepping the surfaces to be epoxied.  I solvent washed the surfaces of the boat as well as the female mold, and made centerline marks to help guide the final fit and position of the female mold.

I then mixed a small batch of epoxy resin, and proceeded to wet out the mating surface of the female mold as well as the boat's surface.  With epoxy resin on the surfaces to be bonded, I then thickened the epoxy resin with a combination of West System's 406 colloidal silica and 407 low-density filler.  I buttered the mating surface of the female mold with the thickened epoxy, gradually increasing the thickness as I moved aft on the female mold.  As can be seen in the picture above, there is an increasing gap between the female mold and the boat as you move aft.  I placed the female mold into position, pushing it firmly into place, and dealing with the thickened epoxy squeeze out as I pressed it into place.  The picture below shows the bracing to keep the female mold in place.

I made sure that the female mold was aligned on the boat's centerline - shown below.

I also made sure that the female mold was level in its side to side orientation.  With the bracing doing its job, I carefully cleaned out the excess epoxy squeeze out.  I decided to fill in the gaps on either side of the female mold in the next work session, while I also apply the fiberglass cloth, allowing for a unified chemical bond between the thickened epoxy and the fiberglass applied to the boat's hull.  With the squeeze out cleaned up, I moved onto one more item in the repair area...

I prepped the recently enclosed outboard engine well with a good solvent wash, and then mixed another batch of thickened epoxy.

I applied the thickened epoxy to the surface with a wide trowel in order to fill the surface irregularities and to further prep for the application of fiberglass cloth.  The next task for completing the electric motor mount and glassing in the old outboard engine well will be to fill in the voids with thickened epoxy and wrap fiberglass from the mounting block to the hull surface, and fill and fair the surface for paint.

Hard to believe, but I am nearing the start of the brightwork fabrication.  I wanted to reintroduce myself to a stack of gorgeous teak, and to generally inventory the pieces.  In the process of the inventorying work, I used the opportunity to offer the teak boards a better storage environment - higher off the ground and more securely wrapped.  In the coming weeks I will begin fabricating coaming board and the various trim components.   

Total Time Today: 3.25 hrs