Allied Greenwich 24: Foredeck Repair (Part 4)

February 5, 2019

The foredeck repair is coming along in good form, yet requires further attention prior to beginning the fairing phase, preceding primer paint. I removed the peel ply from last night's lamination work, and with a 40-grit flap wheel on the angle grinder, I cleaned up the unsightly edges and overlap seam that stood proud in a few areas. I am happy with the results, but have plans to both further strengthen the deck and add to the aesthetics of the finished product. After knocking down the areas I had to, I thoroughly vacuumed the surfaces and wiped them down with a solvent.

The first order of business today would be to tab the new bottom skin (in the foredeck area) to the underside of the original top skin/deck structure. I went below and shimmied into the forepeak, and with a utility knife I worked the exposed balsa core so that there were no sharp edges that would prevent the 1708 biaxial fiberglass from laying down properly. Next, I thoroughly vacuumed and wiped all surfaces with a solvent to prepare for fiberglass work. Before heading back to the shop, I took a measurement of the length of tabbing I would install in this first session to complete the underside of the foredeck repair - I settled on tabbing 30" in length and 7" in width for each side of the repair.

Back in the shop, I removed these two tabbing strips and set them to the side. I also cut peel ply to size as well. I mixed a small pot of epoxy with no thickening agents added to it - referred to as 'neat' epoxy - and applied that to the soon to be tabbed surfaces of the overhead. With the overhead properly wet out with neat epoxy, I returned to the shop and mixed a batch of thickened epoxy. I mixed in 406 colloidal silica and 407 low-density filler to a rather firm texture to ensure it would not sag through its vertical application. With a squeegee to aide in the application, I worked the thickened epoxy mixture into the voids along the side of the newly installed balsa core. I also created a fillet, or radius edge, along the transition from the bottom skin to the top skin to ensure that the 1708 tabbing would lay properly.

With the fillet in on both sides, I returned to the shop to wet out the two length of tabbing. After removing excess resin, I rolled the tabbing length up individually, returned to the boat, and carefully unrolled them onto the overhead. Working with wet fiberglass overhead in never fun...and I outfitted myself with a mask, hat, and safety glasses, but didn't allow even one drop to hit my face!

As each tabbing length went on, I followed it with the peel ply material and worked it in with a squeegee.

I repeated the process on the starboard side of the repair area.

I had noticed a bit of flex on the starboard side deck, and took the opportunity to reinforce it with a 12 to 14" long panel of the 1708 biaxial. I treated the repair area in the same way as I had down the foredeck tabbing: wet out with next epoxy, followed by a bit of thickened epoxy to fill the existing weave and a few voids, applied the wet fiberglass and peel ply to eliminate the need to water-wash and sand after it cures.

I had finished on the interior for the day, and prior to knocking off I wanted to get another layer of 1708 biaxial on the foredeck. As per usual, I applied a sheet of plastic to create a template to be used to remove the new layer of 1708.

Back in the shop, I laid the template onto the fiberglass and traced around the edges with a Sharpie.

I then removed the templated fiberglass panel, and labeled it so as to ensure no confusion when applying it to the repair area.

I wet out the work area and applied thickened epoxy to fill a couple areas that required it so that no voids would result.

With the foredeck prepped for another layer of glass, I made my way back to the shop to wet out the panel to be installed. I applied the epoxy resin, and then removed any excess. I rolled up the panel and walked it over to the boat.