Foredeck Repair (Part 1)

December 29, 2018

At some point along the history of this Allied Greenwich 24, the foredeck core suffered damage from water intrusion.  It was likely a fastener, or variant of a deck penetration, not properly sealed which then allowed water to find its way into the core material; over time, the balsa core began to delaminate and flex under foot.  The most recent repair to the damaged area of the foredeck was to remove the top and bottom skin, along with the core material, and to secure a panel of plywood below and glass over the top.  Again, at some point, the inadequate repair allowed water to migrate in and damaged the plywood...more flex and delamination occurred.

The Allied 24's new owner has decided to have the foredeck repaired in such a way as to hold up to the rigor he will put her through. In addition, any fasteners or deck penetrations will be done in such a way to prevent water from getting to the new balsa core.

I broke out one of those clever boat restoration tools...the hot glue gun!  Yep, this tool is highly useful in templating just about anything, serving as a third or fourth (or ninth) hand while tackling just about anything, etc.   

I used it to build a template for a temporary base, to be cut from door skin material, which would allow me to begin to laminate in the new bottom skin.  I had a few thin strips of old teak laying around the shop that would serve the task of templating nicely.  I worked my around the perimeter of where the core material would be installed - leaving a slight gap between the edge where the new core would be installed and the existing top skin to be tabbed onto. 

I gently pried the template from the overhead, or bottom skin, and set it onto a piece of door skin I had purchased from a big box retailer.  I then transferred the shape of the template to the door skin.

Using a jigsaw, I removed the template from the door skin panel.  This template would serve only to support the new bottom skin installation and through its curing time.  

At the peak of the foredeck, the top skin overhung to an extent that I wanted to go ahead and apply a section of new core material just prior to installing the first layer of bottom skin.  Using a small piece of plastic sheeting, I traced the truncated pyramid shape and used it as a template to remove the shape from a couple leftover pieces of balsa core.

I wet out the underside of the top skin (on the boat) with neat epoxy - epoxy resin without any thickener added to it.  I then came back to the shop to wet out the balsa core itself, and to apply a bit of thickened epoxy to the surface of the balsa core that would come into contact with the underside of the top skin.  

With the balsa core sorted out, I pressed it into a predetermined position, making sure that the thickened epoxy mixture pulled it firmly and securely into its final position.  I could now begin the first layer of bottom skin installation.

Back in the shop, I applied a combination of plastic sheeting and clear packaging tape to the surface of the door skin template.  This surface prep would ensure that the door skin would not become a permanent fixture within the boat. 

I also transferred the door skin shape to a sheet of 1708 biaxial cloth, and removed the first layer of bottom skin.

I cut out enough peel ply / release fabric to cover the door skin / surface of the first layer of bottom skin.  Having the peel play in place would allow me to continue the laminating process without having to wash the amine blush and sand the surface for an adequate mechanical bond.  

I made my way back over to the Allied 24 to install mounting blocks with the hot glue gun.  This is where the "ninth" hand comes in.  I used the hot glue gun to mount a series of blocks both on the bottom skin within the boat and on the door skin.  I set aside the same number of wood strips to serve as the bridge from block on the bottom skin to block on the door skin - thusly securing the temporary base / door skin in place.

What took place next, I simply could not photograph!  There was a significant amount of resin that I had to mix and apply to a rather large piece of 1708 biaxial.  There are folks that work with 6oz cloth and then there are folks that work with, well, more robust pieces of fiberglass.  I fell into the later bucket today.  It was game on from the start, and thus I did not have the luxury of time to stop and memorialize the process.

I wet out the large sheet of 1708, and then applied the peel ply / release fabric to the top of the glass.  I then inverted both the peel ply and 1708 lamination onto the door skin.  Since there was a slight "dip" in the bottom skin I would be laminating onto, I decided to apply two additional layers of 1708 to either side of the "dip".  This would ensure that I had a consistent lamination athwart ship, without voids.  

I transferred the door skin, with the first layer of 1708 biaxial cloth, to the boat and mounted it in place using the hot glue gun and wood strips to secure it.  I then braced further applied bracing from below to guard against any sagging with the thin door skin material.  I then went up on the foredeck and applied addition peel play / fabric release material.  By this time the resin was beginning to gel, and so a uniformed saturation of the peel ply was not achieved.  I will have to water-wash the top of the bottom skin and sand to ensure I have a good surface on which to apply further laminations / bonding new balsa core.  The day was a success though, and it felt good to be moving on with getting the foredeck closed up!

Total Time Today:  5.5 hrs